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EZABL – Advanced EZABL and Printer Troubleshooting

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  • Please go through the Z guide here: EZABL – Z Axis Troubleshooting
  • Also make sure you match the mount type you are using on the printer to the firmware. For example if you printed the “OEM” mount then you need to use the firmware from the “EZABL OEM Mount” folder. If they do not match then the kit will not work correctly.
  • In addition to that be sure you followed ALL the steps of the installation guide (especially the sensor calibration, Z offset, and the slicer settings (starting code is essential, use the one in the guide)).
  • Check your Z endstop trigger: EZABL – Z Not Showing “TRIGGERED” M119 Test
  • Whenever you update your firmware it is HIGHLY advised to send a M502 and then M500 to reset the EEPROM. If you do not do this you may have issues with the firmware working correctly. Please note that if you have an EZABL kit this will erase your Zoffset so make a note of what you had and put that in again.
  • Other things to check for
    • If your cold end fan (the always on one) is missing a fan blade or the bearing is failing (making a lot of noise) the high vibrations can affect the sensor.
    • If you are getting “slanting” on the 1st layer despite getting a good M48 result (anything UNDER 0.01mm) then check your X and Y belt tension. If it is over tensioned, then your X and/or Y carriage plate can be skewed while it moves and cause one side to be lower than the other.
    • For printers with wheels (CR-10, Ender 2/3, Tornado): Check your wheels on the bed and the X gantry. Make sure they are ALL rolling when you move the bed or X. If they are not you will need to adjust the eccentric nut that is on them. For example the CR-10 has 6 wheels and 3 on one side have the eccentric nuts. When you move any wheel it should make the bed move. The wheels should NOT be so tight that if you hold the bed and try to move them they do not move, they should be able to spin with some resistance.
    • If you have any LED or CCFL lamps near the printer, specifically desk lamps and LED strips NOT powered from the printer power supply, unplug them and see if the M48 is better and/or the 1st layer is better. Some IKEA LED lamps have very low quality power supplies in them that emit EMI that will affect the sensors
    • Make sure your Z movement is not bottoming out on the motor mounts. This happens on the CR-10 machines mainly when you do not have the stock glass on the bed. If it is bottoming out you can put the glass back on or use washers to equally shim up the bed to sit higher on all 4 corners.
    • Grounding issues can be a huge problem. (How to check for grounding) Some people notice that their sensor calibration changes when they unplug the printer from the USB port and then try to print over SD. This happens because your printer is getting a ground through the USB shielding because it doesn’t have one itself. Check the power cable going from the printer to the wall and make sure it actually has a ground plug on it. Also check the grounding wire going from the printer power socket to the power supply. Having a good ground is essential to any electronic equipment for function AND safety. If you are not sure if your outlet has a good ground then your local hardware store or Amazon sell inexpensive (under $10) testers that you can plug into the outlet to check if it has a ground signal going to it.
    • If you have the EZConnect try pulling power from the printer PSU. If you have issues with the AC power in your location this usually will fix issues related to AC power. EZABL – Converting the EZ Connect to Direct Wire

To run the test send G28 (make sure your bed is clear) and then M48 P10 X100 Y100 V2. Then send that to our support team with the “standard deviation” that it spits back.