Upgrade your Creality printer or printer with our Tough Dual Hotend with a true all metal TITANIUM heatbreak. Replaces the stock heatbreak on your hotend.
- Fits all Creality machines listed below (see picture of hotend in product photos)
- Ender 2/3/4/5/5 Plus/6
- CR-10 (Standard, Mini, S4, S5)
- CR-10S (Standard, Mini, S4, S5)
- Also Fits Tevo Flash & Tevo Tornado
- Fits our TH3D Tough Dual Hotend
- Fits E3D “Kraken” Style Hotends
- Does NOT fit the CR-10 V2/V3
- May fit other hotends. You can contact us with pictures of your hotend and existing heatbreak so we can verify compatibility.
- Smooth internal bore
- Transfers much less heat than steel or PTFE Style Heatbreaks for lower heat transferred to upper cold end heatsink
- Made from TC4 Titanium Alloy
- Inner Diameter: 4mm at the top, 1.85mm about 5-10mm deep. This holds the PTFE tube in the top, but does not allow it to go all the way through.
- Outer Diameter: 7mm (smooth section), 3mm (throat), 6mm (threading)
- Lengths: 15mm (smooth section), 2mm (throat), 6mm (threading), 23mm (overall)
- Note: Dimensions may very slightly due to manufacturing tolerances. This does not affect the usage of the item.
- Heatbreaks are delicate parts.
- Never tighten your nozzle without holding the heater block with pliers. Doing it without can break the transition zone (the thinnest part).
- Nozzle crashes can also bend the heatbreak. If your heatbreak is bent in a nozzle crash slowly try to bend it back to the original position.
- Our warranty does not cover damage to the heatbreak from over-tightening or nozzle crashes, only defects in the product itself.
- This Titanium Heatbreak will be shorter than the Creality stock one. This is by design as the PTFE tube seats into the collar of our heatbreak.
- The heatbreak is secured into the heatsink with the black grub screw in the creality heatsink. See pictures below.
- Creality’s needs a longer path since it uses the PTFE in the melt zone and ours does not since it is all metal.
Tips for Using This Heatbreak
Installation directions: Heatbreak Installation Information
Oil it - We recommend if you are getting jamming with PLA (this can happen with ALL METAL heatbreaks from any manufacturer) to print a filament oiler. Like this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:492067. Stuff it with a sponge or fiber then lightly wet with CANOLA oil. This will oil the filament path and keep the PLA from sticking to the heatbreak on a longer retract. After using this for about a month or two your heatbreak should have a nice "seasoning" on the inside and use of an oiler will be needed less or not at all.
Lower Retraction - Stick to under 3mm retractions. All metals will need less retraction than a PTFE lined hotend. 25-50mm/s depending on your machine setup. Wipe is recommended (2-5mm).
Thermal Paste (Optional, but recommended) - When installing the heartbreak you can apply thermal paste/grease (like what is used on computer CPUs) to the outside that inserts into the heatsink before installation. This will improve thermal transfer from the heatbreak to the heatsink.
More Details on All-Metal Hotends - Detailed write up on using all metal hotends: Using your All Metal Hotend
Creality Hotend Installation Pictures (other hotend parts NOT included):
3 Months Warranty - Our warranty covers any and all defects with the product. If your product fails or has problems within the warranty period you can contact our support team by using the Contact Us link.
Damage/Failure due to improper installation, improper usage, failure resulting from an issue with the machine the product is installed on, 3rd party products connected to our product, and/or modification of the product are not covered under warranty.