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Product Information
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- Advanced EZABL and Printer Troubleshooting
- EZABL Duet M48 Test Gcode
- EZABL Proโข: M119 End-stop Test
- EZABL Proโข: Retrieving the Sensor's Data from Marlin/Unified Firmware
- How to fix โSlantingโ Bed Leveling Result
- Is your EZABL working well? (M48 Test)
- Tips for best EZABL accuracy
- Z Not Showing โTRIGGEREDโ M119 Test
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- Adjusting the Sensor Height
- Calibrating the EZABL Sensor
- EZABL Pro Detailed Installation Video
- Getting the Perfect Z Offset
- Installing the Solid Bed Mounts
- Mounting the EZABL Sensor
- Powering the EZABL
- Routing the EZABL Cable
- Setting your Initial Z Offset
- Sidewinder X1 Specific - EZABL Installation Video
- Testing the Z Endstop Connection
- Updating the Firmware
- Updating your Starting Gcode
- Z Endstop Connection
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- AnyCubic Chiron EZABL Control Board Connection Info
- CR-10S Pro EZABL Installation Video
- Ender 3 S1 EZABL Z Endstop Cable Connection
- EZABL Pro - Sensor Plug Part Numbers
- EZABL SKR 1.4/1.4T Connection
- EZABL SKR V2 Connection
- Geeetech A10, A10M, A20, A20M Z Endstop Wiring for EZABL
- Sidewinder X1 EZABL Installation Video
- Tevo Tarantula Pro Z Endstop Cable Setup for EZABL
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- DIY Firmware | EZBoard Lite V1.X Board
- EZBoard - Lite V1.X Pinout
- EZBoard Lite V1.X - BTT TFT35-E3 Wiring and Firmware Setup
- EZBoard Lite V1.x - EZABL Not Triggering Fix
- EZBoard Lite V1.X - Installation Guide
- EZBoard Lite V1.X โ Why do you use the TMC 2208 Instead of TMC 2209 Drivers?
- EZBoard Lite V1.X Board Firmware
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- EZPi - Changing/Setting Wifi Network
- EZPi - Disable BetterHeaterTimeout Plugin
- EZPi - Disabling Arc Welder Automatic Processing
- EZPi - DIY Kit Assembly Directions
- EZPi - Getting Started Documentation
- EZPi - Hardening the EZPi Security
- EZPi - Host Action Commands Warning
- EZPi - Image Download (All Versions)
- EZPi - Static IP, Hostname, & Camera Options
- EZPi - Updates or Plugins Not Installing
- EZPi โ EEPROM Datasize error
- Power Blocker Connection Troubleshooting
- Zits or Blobs On My Prints
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- EZNeo - 220 Version Test Gcode
- EZNeo - 5V Universal Power Kit Documentation
- EZNeo - BTT Octopus Pro Board Setup
- EZNeo - Creality V2.4.X Board Setup
- EZNeo - Creality V2.5.2 Board Setup
- EZNeo - Creality V2.X/V2.2.X Board Setup
- EZNeo - Creality V2451_301 (Ender 3 S1) Board Setup
- EZNeo - Creality V4.2.2/V4.2.7/V4.3.1 Board Setup
- EZNeo - Extra Mounting STLs
- EZNeo - EZBoard Lite V1.X Board Setup
- EZNeo - MKS Robin Nano V1.2 Board Setup
- EZNeo - MKS SGenL V2 Board Setup
- EZNeo - Request New Board Wiring Documentation
- EZNeo - Set LEDs to Green on Print End
- EZNeo - SKR 1.4/1.4T Board Setup
- EZNeo - SKR 2 Board Setup
- EZNeo - SKR E3 Mini V1.0 Board Setup
- EZNeo - SKR E3 Mini V1.2 & V2.0 Board Setup
- EZNeo - Sunlu S8 Board Setup
- EZNeo - Universal Power and Firmware Setup Information
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- Bowden Fitting Clips for Tough Extruder Fittings
- Creality Extruder Motor Shaft Lengths
- Heatbreak Installation Information
- PTFE Heatbreak Installation Directions
- TH3D Ender 5 Plus ABS Tough Extruder Bracket Assembly
- TH3D Tough Hot-End - FAQs
- Tough Extruder Firmware Settings
- Tough Extruder or E3D Titan Assembly Video
- Troubleshooting Holes in Prints or Brittle Prints
- Upgraded Aluminum Extruder Installation Video (V2)
- Using your All Metal Hotend
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- 12864 LCD - Missing Lines/Pixels
- 12864 LCD Cable Connections - Correct and Incorrect Connection - Pictures Included
- 12864 LCD on CR-10S Pro - Proper Installation of the CR12864 Adapter PCB
- 12864 LCD Screen Not Lighting Up
- 12864 PCB Spacer - For RepRap LCDs
- AnyCubic Chiron LCD Kit Installation Info
- Assembling the EZLCD
- Ender 6 12864 LCD Kit Installation Directions
- What is the adapter board included in some 12864 LCD packages?
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- Applying Vision Miner Nano Polymer
- Leadscrew Coupler Separating
- Older EZABL Kits (V1/V2/V3/V3.1)
- Power Blocker Connection Troubleshooting
- PTFE Safety Precautions โ ALL PTFE & ToughTube
- Testing an AC SSR
- TH3D High Amp 12V/24V MOSFET V2 Installation Information and Mounts
- TH3D Solid Bed Mount Camera Arm STL Files
- TH3D Uno Bootloader Kit Case
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- Creality Mega 2560 Board Connections (CR-10S/Dual Board)
- Creality Melzi Board Connections (CR-10/Ender 3/Ender 5)
- Creality V24X/V4.X.X Boards - Identifying your CPU Type - 256K or 512K Chips
- Creality V4.2.2 & V4.2.7 Board BL Touch Wiring Options
- Creality V4.2.X Board Driver Codes
- Creality V4.2.X TMC Boards - Recommended VREF
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Downloads
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- Creality CR-10 V2 Firmware | V2.5.2 Board
- Creality CR-10 V3 Firmware | V2.5.2 Board
- Creality CR-10(S) - Mini/S4/S5 Firmware | V4.2.7 Board
- Creality CR-10/Mini/S4/S5 Firmware | Melzi Board
- Creality CR-10S Pro (V1/V2) Firmware | V2.4 Board
- Creality CR-10S/Mini/S4/S5 Firmware | V2.X Board
- Creality CR-20 Firmware | V2.X Board
- Creality CRX Firmware | V2.X Board
- Creality Dual Extrusion Board Firmware | V2.X Board
- Creality Ender 2 Firmware | Melzi Board
- Creality Ender 2 Pro Firmware | V4.2.3 Board
- Creality Ender 3 MAX Firmware | V4.2.X Board
- Creality Ender 3 S1 Firmware | V24S1_301 Board
- Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro Firmware | V24S1_301 Board
- Creality Ender 3 V2 Firmware | V4.2.X Board
- Creality Ender 3/3 Pro Firmware | Melzi Board
- Creality Ender 3/3 Pro Firmware | V4.2.X Board
- Creality Ender 4 Firmware | Stock Board
- Creality Ender 5 Plus Firmware | V2.X Board
- Creality Ender 5 Plus Firmware | V4.2.7 Board
- Creality Ender 5/5 Pro Firmware | Melzi Board
- Creality Ender 5/5 Pro Firmware | V4.2.X Board
- Creality Ender 6 Firmware | V4.3.X Board
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- Creality CR-10(S) - Mini/S4/S5 Firmware | SKR E3 Mini V1/V1.2/V2 Board
- Creality CR-10(S) - Mini/S4/S5 Firmware | SKR E3 Mini V3 Board
- Creality Ender 3 MAX Firmware | SKR E3 Mini V1/V1.2/V2 Board
- Creality Ender 3 MAX Firmware | SKR E3 Mini V3 Board
- Creality Ender 3/3 Pro Firmware | SKR E3 Mini V1/V1.2/V2 Board
- Creality Ender 3/3 Pro Firmware | SKR E3 Mini V3 Board
- Creality Ender 5 Plus Firmware | SKR E3 Mini V1/V1.2/V2 Board
- Creality Ender 5 Plus Firmware | SKR E3 Mini V3 Board
- Creality Ender 5/5 Pro Firmware | SKR E3 Mini V1/V1.2/V2 Board
- Creality Ender 5/5 Pro Firmware | SKR E3 Mini V3 Board
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Guides
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- Anet Bootloader Flashing Guide (USBASP)
- Bootloader Flashing Guide โ CR-10/Ender 2 3 5/Wanhao i3/Anet - 1284p Boards
- Creality V2.0/V2.1/V2.2 Board โ Atmel 2560 ICSP Programming Header Pinout
- Creality V2.4 (CR-10S Pro) Board โ Atmel 2560 ICSP Programming Header Pinout
- TH3D Uno Bootloader Kit Case
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- 3D Printer Help Guide Creality & Others
- ABL Z Offset, Gantry Leveling, Babystepping, Storing Offset to EEPROM
- CR-10(S) Setup and Mechanical Checks
- Creality X Gantry Re-work
- Marlin Gcode M115 - Display Firmware Version Info
- Printer Bed Sizing Chart
- Printer Homing Types | Home Positions Explained | Min/Max/ABL Probes
- Removing Stress Marks from Printed Parts
- SKR E3 Mini, SKR E3 Turbo, Creality V4.2.2, and V4.2.7 LCD EMI Issue
- Thermistor Values for Unified 2 Firmware
- Tips for Printing ABS Successfully with your 3D Printer
- Unified Firmware - BLTouch Settings
- What board is in my Ender 3D printer? | Ender 3/5
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- AnyCubic Mega Zero V1 Heated Bed Upgrade DIY Info
- Auto Bed Leveling Z Fade Setup & Info
- CR-10S V2.0/V2.1 Temperature Repair
- Creality Extruder Motor Shaft Lengths
- Creality Press-Fit Extruder Gear Removal
- Dual Extrusion Setup Information
- EZABL Duet Board Setup Information
- Filament Handling and Drying
- Linear Advance Information for Marlin Based Firmware
- P.I.D. Bed Calibration Guide
- P.I.D. Hotend Calibration Guide
- Re-wiring 2 Pin Fan Connectors - Video
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- Arduino IDE - Mac OS X Setup Guide
- Pronterface - Using Pronterface to send GCode to your Printer
- Simplify3D - Not Connecting to Printer over USB
- Slicers - Starting Gcode Locations - EZABL
- Unified 2 Firmware - Github Repo and Old Versions
- VSCode - "No such file or directory" Error
- VSCode - Manually Selecting your Upload (COM) Port
- VSCode - PlatformIO Toolbar Missing - How to Fix
- VSCode - Problems & Terminal Tabs
- VSCode - Setup Guide for Unified 2 and Marlin 2 Firmware
- VSCode - Unified 2 Tips for Noobs
- VSCode: Check-mark Compile Button Not Showing
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- 3D Printer Help Guide Creality & Others
- Babystepping with GCode Commands
- BL Touch - Reset Operation Mode
- CR-10(S) Setup and Mechanical Checks
- Creality Printers - DACAI and DWIN Color LCDs
- Creality X Gantry Re-work
- Display Corruption - Ender 3 V2/Ender 3 S1/Voxelab Aquila
- Extruder Motor will not Turn
- Fan Stuck 100% or Not Coming On - Layer Fan or other Fan
- Filament Handling and Drying
- Flashing Firmware with an Uno โ Useful if your printer USB port is bad
- Leadscrew Coupler Separating
- Preliminary Troubleshooting Steps
- Printer Grounding โ How to Check your PSU and Grounding Your Bed
- Sensors and Gantry Grounding
- SKR E3 Mini, SKR E3 Turbo, Creality V4.2.2, and V4.2.7 LCD EMI Issue
- Temp Reading High, MAXTEMP Error, or LCD Blank
- Testing and Checking your Stepper Motors
- Testing your SD Card for errors
- Troubleshooting Holes in Prints or Brittle Prints
- Using your All Metal Hotend
- Y Layer Shifting on Your Printer
- Z Axis Troubleshooting
- Zits or Blobs On My Prints
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- Creality BL Touch Probe Mount Offsets (Metal Bracket)
- Creality CR-10 and CR-10S Models โ What Printer do you have?
- Creality CRX โ EZABL, EZOut, and Firmware Videos
- Creality Ender 3 & Ender 3 Pro - Upgrades, Information, and Tips
- Creality Printers - DACAI and DWIN Color LCDs
- Creality V24X/V4.X.X Boards - Identifying your CPU Type - 256K or 512K Chips
- Display Corruption - Ender 3 V2/Ender 3 S1/Voxelab Aquila
- Ender 3 V2 - Swapping to the 12864 Creality LCD for more features
- Ender 5 Plus Upgrade Paths โ EZABL, EZBoard, LCD Kit
- Unified Firmware Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus Information
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- AC Bed Wiring with a SSR for Control
- AnyCubic Chiron LCD Kit Installation Info
- BL Touch Wiring Harness Colors โ Antclabs vs BigTreeTech (BTT)
- BL Touch Wiring Harness Colors โ Antclabs vs Creality
- Creality CR-10 V2/V3 Breakout Board Pinout
- Creality V4.2.2 & V4.2.7 Board BL Touch Wiring Options
- EZABL PSU 12V/24V Power Wiring
- EZABL SKR 1.4/1.4T Connection
- EZABL SKR V2 Connection
- EZNeo - Creality V2451_301 (Ender 3 S1) Board Setup
- MKS SGen L V2 Wiring/Pinouts
- Re-wiring 2 Pin Fan Connectors - Video
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Customer Service
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- Backorders - Shipping Times and Cancellation
- COVID19 - Shipping Delays
- Printed Products - Lead Times/Backorders
- Sending Back Your Return
- Shipment Received, Package Acceptance Pending - USPS Status
- Shipping to Mail Forwarders
- UK Shipping - New VAT laws
- USPS First Class Mail Services FAQ
- When will my order ship?
- Wrong Address Entered at Checkout
Introduction
Heatbreaks are the parts that connect the filament path from the heatsink on your hotend to the heater block. These parts are delicate so care must be used when handling them. This article has general information that applies to most heatbreaks as well as specifics for heatbreaks that we carry.
Some heat breaks are all metal and some are “PTFE” types. They all install the same way. A “PTFE” type heatbreak will either have a piece of PTFE lining the inside of the heatbreak or allow the main PTFE tube to completely pass through it to the back of the nozzle. If you have a “PTFE” type that passes the main PTFE tube from your extruder to the nozzle then you need to make sure the end of the tube is cut flat and your PTFE fittings are holding the tube tightly. We carry PTFE tube, PTFE cutters, and PTFE fittings for most 3D printers.
If you want more details on your 3D printer hotend and how all the parts work check out this article from Hobby Hoarder.

How to swap a Heatbreak
Swapping a heatbreak always needs to be done when the hotend is hot. This means at least 200C in temp. Be careful when working with the hotend as you can burn yourself.
You will need some tools to swap this part out. Here is what we recommend having before starting:
- 2 sets of normal pliers, not needle nose
- A socket or wrench that fits your nozzle
- Screwdrivers to disassemble your hotend assembly – Usually the hex wrenches that are included with your 3D printer
- Thermal Paste (Optional, but recommended)
Let’s begin!
- Remove the filament – Unload filament from your printer
- Get access – Take apart your hotend assembly to get easy access to your hotend itself. Depending on the machine you have this may involve removing hotend mounts, fans, and other parts that are covering the hotend itself.
- Pre-heat – Heat the hotend to 230C and let it get to temp. Remove any hotend coverings before heating up if your hotend has them (silicone socks, kapton tape, etc).
- Kill power – Disconnect power to your printer, be ready to work quickly.
- Remove the Heatbreak – Hold the heater block with a set of wide pliers and with another set of pliers unscrew the current heatbreak from the heater block.
- WARNING: Make sure you grab the heater block on a side where you will not crush any wires going to the heater block. If you damage these wires you can damage the hotend and/or your control board.
- NOTE: Some hotends (like Creality ones) have small grub screws that hold the heatbreak into the heatsink. If your hotend has these loosen them up so the heatbreak can be removed from the heatsink. Others like the V6 type have a heatbreak that threads into the heatsink.
- Check the temp – Your heaterblock should be loose at this point. Take care to make sure it doesn’t hit anything that could be damaged by the heat. Turn your printer on and check the temperature on the hotend. If it is under 200C have it heat up again to 230C and then unplug your printer once it is at temp again.
- Prep the nozzle – Hold the heaterblock with pliers again, make sure to avoid the wires, and screw your nozzle in all the way (not tight) and then back it out 1/4 turn.
- New heatbreak insertion – Still holding the heaterblock with your pliers, screw in the new heatbreak until it contacts the rear of your nozzle in the heaterblock.
- Put it back together – Re-assemble the hotend in the reverse order that you took it apart in.
- Apply Thermal Paste (optional, but recommended) – When installing the heatbreak you can apply thermal paste/grease (like what is used on computer CPUs) to the outside that inserts into the heatsink before installation. This will improve thermal transfer from the heatbreak to the heatsink.
- Hot tighten – Once the hotend is re-assembled you will want to heat the nozzle up to 230C (250C if you are installing an all metal heatbreak) and then tighten the nozzle.
- NOTE: This step is critical as if you do not tighten the nozzle filament will leak during a print.
- WARNING: Do NOT overtighten the nozzle. You should use a spanner wrench or normal socket wrench and only as much pressure as you can apply with one finger.
Congratulations! You have now swapped out your heatbreak.
It’s leaking! It is common to get some leaking when you swap a nozzle or heatbreak. If you do notice a leak then stop the print, heat up the nozzle, disconnect power, turn the nozzle out 1/4 turn, and tighten it again. Sometimes it doesn’t seat correctly on the first try and requires you to re-hot-tighten the nozzle against the heatbreak. The bottom of your nozzle should NOT be flush with the block (there should be a small gap). If there is not a gap then you need to thread the heatbreak further into the heater block.
Tough Titanium Heatbreak for Creality Machines and Tough Dual Hotend
The heatbreak we carry for the Creality hotends and our Tough Dual Hotend is shorter than the stock Creality heatbreaks since it is all metal when you are using it in a Creality hotend. The heatbreak has a collar at the top that the PTFE seats into inside the hotend.
See below for pictures of how it should look when you install it into your Creality hotend.






