Tough 50W Heater Cartridge – 12V/24V
$11.99
- Reduce heating times
- Quick installation – just install and splice wires
- 12V AND 24V available – Select Voltage Below
- Wattage and Voltage Laser Engraved on Cartridge
- 2 METERS of wire attached
- High Quality Stainless Steel casing
- Works with most hotends that use a cartridge type heater
- E3D Hotends (Authentic and Clones)
- Creality Hotends
- See picture for size and format
Want quicker heat up times? Having trouble keeping your hotend at temp when your layer fan kicks on? This is the upgrade for you.
You can hit over 300C with these on an all metal hotend but most 100K thermistors will not read this high. If you want to exceed 300C you need a PT100 thermocouple (sold separately).
- Reduce heating times
- Quick installation – just install and splice wires
- 12V AND 24V available – Select Voltage Below
- Wattage and Voltage Laser Engraved on Cartridge
- 2 METERS of wire attached
- High Quality Stainless Steel casing
- Works with most hotends that use a cartridge type heater
- E3D Hotends (Authentic and Clones)
- Creality Hotends
- Tevo Hotends
- Anet Hotends
- See picture for size and format
DIY Part Fitment/Installation/Wiring
This is a universal DIY 3D printer part. That means it will work on almost any 3D printer, but you must know what you are doing.
Our technical support does not cover selecting/designing/assisting in firmware setup and/or 3d models to install this part on your printer. If purchased as part of a kit from TH3D for a particular printer, then it will be covered under the kit when using our firmware package.
Electrical replacement parts usually will require you to splice wires into your existing ones for the part you are replacing (soldering and heat shrinking wire splices is recommended for proper connection).
Some of our universal electrical parts come with bare wire ends or plugs on them. These ends may or may not directly plug into your 3D printer. If they do not, you will need to splice the wires into the existing ones on your 3D printer.
Warranty Information
3 Months Warranty -Â Our warranty covers any and all defects with the product. If your product fails or has problems within the warranty period you can contact our support team by using the Contact Us link.
Damage/Failure due to improper installation, improper usage, failure resulting from an issue with the machine the product is installed on, 3rd party products connected to our product, and/or modification of the product are not covered under warranty.
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Michael Anderson –
This is another must have if you either print using high temps, or like me – are just impatient about waiting for your hot end to come to temp. will require a PID tune to dial it in, but is an awesome upgrade for your hot end. VERY worth the small investment. Quality insulation, long wires, and a very robust design. A+ in my book.
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Daniel Lopez (verified owner) –
Which version do I need for the Ender 5?
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Tim Hoogland (verified owner) –
The ender 5 is a 24V machine so select the 24V version of this heater.
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mpoffo –
Do I need to change firmware settings to allow to print on a stock creality 5 plus silent board at higher temps? Is so any guidance on making the change on the Creality silent board w/stock display?
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Tim Hoogland (verified owner) –
You do not. But it is really recommended to run a PID tune after installing. https://www.th3dstudio.com/hc/en-us/articles/360043728451-P-I-D-Hotend-Calibration-Guide
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rich.magda (verified owner) –
I have a stock Creality CR6-SE with the stock mainboard and firmware. When adding the 50W heater cartridge do I need to update the firmware and/or do a PID calibration? Your advice is appreciated!
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Tim Hoogland (verified owner) –
Any time, on any printer if you change the heater cartridge it is recommended to do a PID tune. The printer will work without a PID tune but the temperature may overshoot or undershoot at first.
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bongo00797 –
Hello,
I have a Ender 3 V2 and a Ender Max, just to make sure. Do they both need a 24V carteidge?
Cheers
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Tim Hoogland (verified owner) –
The Ender 3 V3 and Ender 3 Max both use 24V.
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Garrick Cheung –
What’s the max temp that can be reached by this heating cartridge?
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Tim Hoogland (verified owner) –
The max recommended temp would be around 450C but that would require a block and thermistor in your hotend that can handle those higher temperatures as well as being able to read them correctly.
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alex wildbore (verified owner) –
can you confirm the size please?
description says look at picture but the picture doesn’t have it.
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Tim Hoogland (verified owner) –
They are 20mm long and 6mm in diameter. There is a photo added to the product page.
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Maximilian Stober –
What ends do we need to connect this?
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Tim Hoogland (verified owner) –
This is just bare wire leads. Most people will either replace the entire wire run on their printer with the included 2 meter wire that is attached to the heater or they will splice it into the existing hotend wires.
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jdmj0079 (verified owner) –
What gague are the wires? I’d like to put connectors on them.
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Tor Blazeby (verified owner) –
Should be about 22 AWG for the heater
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Ray MacLaren (verified owner) –
Put this into my Ender 3 heater block and noticed an immediate improvement in how quickly my nozzle could get up to temp. Only using it for PLA right now and I still think it is worth the upgrade from stock for such a reasonable price.
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spudmlgnjr (verified owner) –
Works great, perfect fit and no problems heating.
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nightcrawler51 (verified owner) –
I replaced one of the common “red tail” heaters on my Ender 3 after it quit working with one of these. The old one would get to temp by jumping a degree or two every second or so. So to get to 200C from 30C would take about 2+ minutes. For bed leveling, I had to set the recovery at 20 seconds to make sure I was back at temp. This monster heats at 3-4 degrees a second and I am at temp in less than a minute. Recovery during EZABL bed test is easily in 8 seconds. Sure, a couple minutes isn’t a lot of time for 3D printing, but when you are waiting to watch the first layer go down on the bed, it is great to be printing ASAP.
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meccquest (verified owner) –
I don’t think I can go back to using a 40W heater ever again. Heat up times are always under a minute. I also watched Tim’s youtube video titled “How To Video – Replacing Your 3D Printer Hotend – Complete with Fans” to understand how to correctly splice wires which made the install pretty easy.
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Bxs –
Is this the correct length to fit a micro-swiss all metal hot end?
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Tim Hoogland –
This will fit a MicroSwiss hotend. Its the same size as the stock cartridge.
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joseccz –
Will this fit stock CR10s heat block?
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Tim Hoogland –
Yes it will. 🙂
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Derrick Anderson –
i bought the e3d pt100 upgrade kit that comes with amplifier board – but noone had any instructions as to how to hook it up and set it for a cr-10s … does anyone have any instructions besides the doc link? https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Wiki/E3D_PT100_Amplifier_Documentation#Section_Additional_Boards
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Andrew Esquivel (verified owner) –
I print at 250C constantly. I can heat up faster, and maintain temp a little better compared to the stock 40watt heater, and fits perfectly in my Ender 3 pros MK8 Hotend. There is PLENTY of wire – probably more than you will need. but it works nicely.
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Brent Adams –
Do you carry the PT100 thermocouple mentioned in the description? Search only takes me to this heater cartridge.
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Tim Hoogland –
We do not carry PT100 types. PrintedSolid.com does carry the E3D ones that work well.
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Fernando Mora –
Will this work on a Microswiss all metal hotend in a Cr-10S4 with a EZboard? Do I need the 12 or 24 Volt version? (im using the stock PSU)
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Tim Hoogland –
Yes it will work in the MicroSwiss hotend. If you have a CR-10 S4 that would be a 12V printer.
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Matso Limtiaco –
Looks like I need to replace the stock heater in my CR-10 S5. Is there an easy way to tell whether I need the 12V or the 24V version?
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Tim Hoogland –
You can look at the label on your power supply. But a CR-10 S5 is a 12V printer.
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vipergtsrrt10 (verified owner) –
was very easy to install…i did a PID tune and i have not had any issues with my new heater cartridge at all have bought 2 more… 1 as a spare and 1 for my other printer..
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Isaac Chen (verified owner) –
Well, before I got this heater cartridge my life must’ve been so boring, I mean you spend like two minutes just waiting for the parts to heat up. Well, this heater cartridge heats up in about 20 seconds, and is actually very good at handling the temperature.
IF ANYBODY is skeptical before getting this all I’m going to say is Don’t be, the quality of this heater is phenomenal and makes heating times about twice as fast, and if you think you don’t need it, believe me you do, plus the price is not one that you can argue about.
To the makers of this: Thanks a lot for creating this, and keep up the good work, I love your work here and make sure to have a great day.
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shanty068 –
is the cable 2 meters long? does it have a connector at the end goes into the board? is there a 2 meter thermistor cable as well that goes with it?
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Tim Hoogland (verified owner) –
This heater and all others we carry come with no ends on the wires, you have to fit your own or splice them into existing wires. Most printers use screw terminals to connect their heaters that accept bare wires. As for thermistors we carry thermistors with wires pre-attached here: 3 Pack 100K Thermistor. The thermistors come with 1-meter wire and bare ends, you will splice into the existing wires on your printer to replace a failed thermistor.
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