- CR-10 & CR-10S – ALL Sizes
- Hotend and control box
- Wanhao Duplicator i3
- Hotend and control box
- Anet A2/A6/A8 series and E10/E12 series
- Hotend
- Alfawise U10
- Hotend, Layer Fan, and Control Box
- Ender 2
- Hotend and Control box fan
- 4x M3x16 Screws needed as the stock fan in the control box has recessed screw holes.
- Hotend and Control box fan
- Be sure to check the polarity on the wires you are connecting our fans to. Typically red is positive and black is negative but some of the Chinese printers do not adhere to these standards.
- There is no list of what machines use what as it can vary from model to model and we have even seen differences in wiring colors used in the same printer models.
- Our fans use red for positive and black for negative. You can verify polarity with a cheap $10 multimeter from Amazon or you local hardware store.
- If fans are shorted out/killed due to improper wiring this is NOT covered under warranty.
- Some Creality machines have been reported to have larger size metal screw standoffs. If your fan holes do not fit over them please see this article to make the fan fit correctly while still using the stock screws.
- Fan Mod Article: Fitting Fans to Creality Machines – Larger Metal Standoffs
- To use in the rear in a CR-10 Control box you can either use shorter M3x14mm screws or print a spacer. Stock is 20mm thick and these are 10mm thick. Download the spacer here.
- Ender 2 Control Box – 4x M3x16 Screws needed as the stock fan in the control box has recessed screw holes.
- On some printers, the metal fan shrouds can amplify the motor noise of a fan. This is usually seen on the Ender 3/5 series with their metal fan grill that comes with the machine. The grill itself is easy to remove and takes only a few seconds to do. See this article for details.
- Airflow: 5.4 CFM (0.151m³/min)
- Static Pressure: 0.090 in H2O (22.4 Pa)
- Noise: 20 dB(A)
- Voltage: 12V DC
- Bearing Type: CUI omniCool™
- Size: 40x40x10MM
- RPM: 5000
- Wire Length: 10″
Part Fitment/Installation
This is a universal 3D printer part. That means it will work on almost any 3D printer (check your printer voltage and part voltage) with the correct mount for your specific machine. Thingiverse is a wonderful place to locate mounts and we also have printed parts in our shop for some universal parts.
It is up to you to determine and select a mount for your specific printer model (or design one) to install this part on your machine and wire it up to your machine (if applicable). You are welcome to Contact Us for recommendations for your particular printer model for mounting options that are available online if searching yourself does not yield any results.
Purchased a used cr-10 had a nactua fan on the hotend, over time it would under extrude, replaced it with this 40mm fan and the issue went away.
Replacing the stock fans with this fan coupled with the other two really quieted down the fan noise from my CR-10 control box which was really annoying. I recommend buying the kit of three and saving some $.
Used it to silence a CR10-S box, it did the job but was not easy to install.
First off, the UY IDC connectors are way to small to accommodate the fan wire gauge, there is no way to insert the wire to the end and if the wire is stripped, it does not hold inside. Second, the STL file for the spacer does not match the screw holders, the holes should be tampered on one side to help in positioning the spacer and the stock screws could be used. I tried to use 3×16 screws and they were too long so I went for 3×12 and it did the trick..
The noise coming out of the box is now divided by 2 which is good!!
Ender 2 note: make sure to purchase 4 x M3x16 bolts (so 4mm longer than stock) as you cannot use the stock bolts with the TH3D delivered fan. The stock Ender 2 fan mounting holes are deeper at one side to allow the stock bolts to slide in, the new Sunon fan does not have these.