Compatible Machines:
- CR-10 & CR-10S – ALL Sizes
- Hotend and control box
- Wanhao Duplicator i3
- Hotend and control box
- Anet A2/A6/A8 series and E10/E12 series
- Hotend
- Alfawise U10
- Hotend, Layer Fan, and Control Box
- Ender 2
- Hotend and Control box fan
- 4x M3x16 Screws needed as the stock fan in the control box has recessed screw holes.
- Hotend and Control box fan
Installation Notes:
- Be sure to check the polarity on the wires you are connecting our fans to. Typically red is positive and black is negative but some of the Chinese printers to not adhere to these standards.
- There is no list of what machines use what as it can vary from model to model and we have even seen differences in wiring colors used in the same printer models.
- Our fans use red for positive and black for negative. You can verify polarity with a cheap $10 multimeter from Amazon or you local hardware store.
- If fans are shorted out/killed due to improper wiring this is NOT covered under warranty.
- Some Creality machines have been reported to have larger size metal screw standoffs. If your fan holes do not fit over them please see this article to make the fan fit correctly while still using the stock screws.
- Fan Mod Article: Fitting Fans to Creality Machines – Larger Metal Standoffs
- To use in the rear in a CR-10 Control box you can either use shorter M3x14mm screws or print a spacer. Stock is 20mm thick and these are 10mm thick. Download the spacer here.
- Ender 2 Control Box – 4x M3x16 Screws needed as the stock fan in the control box has recessed screw holes.
- Noise notes:
- In our testing and per the manufacturer specs these are quieter than stock fans based on dB measurements taken with a calibrated dB meter.
- Removing and/or changing the design of the grill that the fan is behind will change the noise level that is perceived to your ears and it is subjective based on the person listening.
- We only use dB meters to check noise levels. Most stock fans are 30-35dB in noise levels based on measurements of the stock fans from Creality, Tevo, and Wanhao that we measured here.
- It is said that every 10dB increase in noise is perceived as 2x the loudness that a person hears (see here for detailed info on loudness and how it is perceived).
Tech Specs:
- Airflow: 5.4 CFM (0.151m³/min)
- Static Pressure: 0.090 in H2O (22.4 Pa)
- Noise: 20 dB(A)
- Voltage: 12V DC
- Bearing Type: Sunon Vapo-Bearing™ OR CUI omniCool™
- Both bearings are the same, depends on stock what brand is shipped
- Size: 40x40x10MM
- RPM: 5000
- Wire Length: 10″
- 2 “UY” quick connectors for solder-free installation
- See picture below for how to use. Use WIDE pliers and apply equal force.
- Make sure wires are straight and centered in the connector before squeezing.
Warranty & Support Information
Technical Support: TH3D Community Support
Technical support with for product it is handled through our TH3D Communities. You can get access to them on our Community Page. If you require consulting time direct from the TH3D team to use/install the part it is available for an additional, hourly consulting charge.
Warranty Length: 3 Months
Our warranty covers any and all defects with the product. If your product fails or has problems within the warranty period you can contact our support team by using the Contact Us link. This is for warranty related issues only, not technical support. Damage/Failure due to improper installation, usage, failure resulting from an issue with the machine the product is installed on, and/or modification or the product is not covered under warranty
Gert Luyten (verified owner) –
Ender 2 note: make sure to purchase 4 x M3x16 bolts (so 4mm longer than stock) as you cannot use the stock bolts with the TH3D delivered fan. The stock Ender 2 fan mounting holes are deeper at one side to allow the stock bolts to slide in, the new Sunon fan does not have these.
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ThierryC (verified owner) –
Used it to silence a CR10-S box, it did the job but was not easy to install.
First off, the UY IDC connectors are way to small to accommodate the fan wire gauge, there is no way to insert the wire to the end and if the wire is stripped, it does not hold inside. Second, the STL file for the spacer does not match the screw holders, the holes should be tampered on one side to help in positioning the spacer and the stock screws could be used. I tried to use 3×16 screws and they were too long so I went for 3×12 and it did the trick..
The noise coming out of the box is now divided by 2 which is good!!
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