24V 350W PSU Replacement/Upgrade – Genuine MeanWell
From: $44.99
- UL Certified
- VERY Low Ripple
- High Reliability
- GENUINE Mean Well PSU
- Optional cover to use stock AC Receptacle available below
- STL Download below for those that want to print on their own
Tested in multiple different models of our in house machines for months. Reduces issues with EZABL and other bed leveling kits due to power ripple and grounding. More reliability than the stock printer PSU.
Guaranteed to work with the Following Printers:
- Anet A8 Plus
- Ender 3/4/5
- Only works with the Ender 5 (and pro), NOT the plus.
- If you have the 5 Plus you want the 450W PSU we carry.
- Ender 3 V2
- Creality CR-6
- Geeetech A10
- Geeetech A10M
- Geeetech A20
- Geeetech A20M
- Sovol SV01
- May fit other models. Contact us with a picture of your PSU to verify fitment.
- Most stock PSUs will list 24V 15A on them. This will replace most of those.
- Printed cover available as an addon above.
We get these from trusted US part suppliers so we know they are 100% genuine Mean Well power supplies. CHECK POWER SWITCH (see pictures) BEFORE INSTALLING. SET TO YOUR COUNTRY VOLTAGE (115 for US/Canada – 230 for Most other places)
Tech specs:
24 VDC
350 W
100-120VAC, 200-240VAC
Warranty Information
3 Months Warranty - Our warranty covers any and all defects with the product. If your product fails or has problems within the warranty period you can contact our support team by using the Contact Us link.
Damage/Failure due to improper installation, improper usage, failure resulting from an issue with the machine the product is installed on, 3rd party products connected to our product, and/or modification of the product are not covered under warranty.
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Jim (verified owner) –
I got 2 of these and they Rock! They are way better that the ones that came with my Ender 3 printers! Thanks for the fast shipping and great service!
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Question
Azrael Garvan –
will this fit a cr-10 with dual extruder board?
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Tim Hoogland –
It depends on the machine you are putting it in. If you have an Ender 3/Ender 5/CR-20 then yes. If you have a CR-10 series you want the 12V PSU here: https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/cr-10-psu-replacement-upgrade-mean-well/
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Question
Riki Adams –
Hi, I’m new to 3D printing, just set up my first printer this weekend, Ender 3 V2.
What are the benefits to getting this upgrade? I want to mod the printer as I learn more about it so i assume i need more power for future mods.
I also see this is potentially safer than the stock PSU on the 3 V2?
Just seeing where it worth investing first. Already investing in the metal extruder, better springs, flexible bed, so trying to figure out if this is a good option too. Might as well make the most of the shipping cost to Canada.
Thank you
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Tim Hoogland –
The stock PSU on the Ender 3 V2 should be this same PSU. Open the casing and see if it has the Meanwell logo like in our product picture.
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vipergtsrrt10 (verified owner) –
i feel much safer with this power supply running the ender 3 i gave to my friend for there kids..was a very easy plug and play type of process to change out..
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Question
michael.stonell –
I have been considering replacing the stock Landy PSU on my Ender 5. I’m also planning to install a dual hot-end. Is the 350w sufficient to run the heatbed and two hot ends? or should I consider something bigger?
Sorry for the repost. I just i realised i originally replied to a thread instead of in a new question.
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Question
Jake Kennedy –
Two questions.
My ezabl isn’t working well, and I think it may be due to the poor grounding of the default PSU. Will switching out that with this product fix a grounding problem?
Also, will the plastic part of the old PSU fit this model? If not, would I be able to run my printer without the plastic shell on the PSU until I have it printed?
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michael.stonell –
I have been considering replacing the stock Landy PSU on my Ender 5. I’m also planning to install a dual hot-end. Is the 350w sufficient to run the heatbed and two hot ends? or should I consider something bigger?
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Tim Hoogland –
The 350 is more than enough for 2x hotends and the stock bed.
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Tor Blazeby (verified owner) –
If its the printers PSU causing the issue then it can help. The stock PSU plastic cover will not fit but on the product page is a link to the STL files for this psu. You can use it without the cover but be very careful not to short anything out.
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Question
Corinne McConkle (verified owner) –
Will this work on an Artillery Sidewinder X1?
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Tim Hoogland –
This 350W is too large. The 150W we carry should be a direct replacement for the stock PSU: https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/tevo-tornado-psu-replacement-upgrade-mean-well/
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TreeClocker67 (verified owner) –
Drop in replacement, genuine Meanwell, printed the case, slapped that bad boy on my Ender 3 without any issues. It’s way quieter than the stock PSU that came with my Ender 3.
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Question
Rick –
Does the fan run all of the time or only when the PSU is too hot?
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Jay –
When printing the new case, do you need to use supports for it?
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Tim Hoogland –
If you have a good layer fan you don’t need supports.
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Tim Hoogland –
The only runs as needed when the PSU is under load.
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mjbaldwin0352 –
Any one (me too) who purchased the standard ender 3 gets a chinese PSU should not feel secure in knowing that you will have a long term safe printer. The meanwell PSU is full of quality parts and certified for safety.
Thanks TH3D
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Juan –
is this also for ender 5 plus? my power supply died on the 1st day or it was already faulty ..
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Tim Hoogland –
We don’t have our Ender 5 Plus yet. Can you email a picture of the stock PSU to Support@TH3DStudio.com and we can see what model they installed in there?
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Question
wnypokerth3d –
My 2 week old Ender 6 (CoreXY) is tripping the house circuit breaker all of a sudden. I can’t keep the Ender powered on for more than a few minutes before the breaker trips.
Do you think this power supply will address the issue?
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Tim Hoogland –
You may be overdrawing the circuit. But I would try moving the printer to another circuit for testing and see if it trips that one as well. If it does, then the PSU may be a good place to start in terms of replacing parts. You could also use a device like the “Kill-A-Watt” to see how much current the Printer is pulling.
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