Tough Titanium Heatbreak for Creality Machines & Tough Dual Hotend
$6.99
Upgrade your Creality printer or printer with our Tough Dual Hotend with a true all metal TITANIUM heatbreak. Replaces the stock heatbreak on your hotend.
- Fits all Creality machines listed below (see picture of hotend in product photos)
- Ender 2/3/4/5
- CR-10 (All Sizes)
- CR-10S (All Sizes)
- Also Fits Tevo Flash & Tevo Tornado
- Fits our TH3D Tough Dual Hotend
In stock
Product Info
Upgrade your Creality printer or printer with our Tough Dual Hotend with a true all metal TITANIUM heatbreak. Replaces the stock heatbreak on your hotend.
- Fits all Creality machines listed below (see picture of hotend in product photos)
- Ender 2/3/4/5
- CR-10 (All Sizes)
- CR-10S (All Sizes)
- Also Fits Tevo Flash & Tevo Tornado
- Fits our TH3D Tough Dual Hotend
- May fit other hotends. You can contact us with pictures of your hotend and existing heatbreak so we can verify compatibility.
- Smooth internal bore
- Transfers much less heat than steel or PTFE Style Heatbreaks for lower heat transferred to upper cold end heatsink
- Made from TC4 Titanium Alloy
- Heatbreaks are delicate parts.
- Never tighten your nozzle without holding the heater block with pliers. Doing it without can break the transition zone (the thinnest part).
- Nozzle crashes can also bend the heatbreak. If your heatbreak is bent in a nozzle crash slowly try to bend it back to the original position.
- Our warranty does not cover damage to the heatbreak from over-tightening or nozzle crashes, only defects in the product itself.
Tips for Using This Heatbreak
- We recommend if you are getting jamming with PLA (this can happen with ALL METAL heatbreaks from any manufacturer) to print a filament oiler.
- Like this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:492067. Stuff it with a sponge or fiber then lightly wet with CANOLA oil. This will oil the filament path and keep the PLA from sticking to the heatbreak on a longer retract.
- After using this for about a month or two your heatbreak should have a nice “seasoning” on the inside and use of an oiler will be needed less or not at all.
- Stick to under 3mm retractions. All metals will need less retraction than a PTFE lined hotend. 25-50mm/s depending on your machine setup. Wipe is recommended (2-5mm).
- Detailed write up on using all metal hotends: https://www.th3dstudio.com/knowledgebase/using-your-all-metal-hotend/
Creality Hotend Installation Pictures (other hotend parts NOT included):
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- Top view where PTFE seats into heatbreak
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- Installed into heaterblock.
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- Fully assembled. Hot tighten nozzle to heatbreak at 250C to final seal.
Support/Warranty
- Included Support: TH3D Community Support
- All Metal Hotend Information: https://www.th3dstudio.com/knowledgebase/using-your-all-metal-hotend/
- Warranty: 90 Days
Jeffery Moss (verified owner) –
The strawberry nerds were AWESOME!!! Also they came with a Tough Titanium Heatbreak that looks nice also. But those NERDS!
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mjbaldwin0352 (verified owner) –
This part technically converts the stock Creality hot end to an all metal hotend by raising the ptfe tube out of the heat zone. This means no more hot end fix and no more ptfe jamming due to leak or loss of ptfe pressure on the top of the nozzle.
You will have to reduce your retraction starting at 1mm and use retraction testing before printing anything else. You dont want to ruin a print without calibrating for this part. Thingiverse.com has stl’s for retraction testing.
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Robert Colt (verified owner) –
Unfortunately cannot recommend this product. I’ve spent a week trying to get it to work on a stock Ender 5 hot end. No amount of retraction tweaking or temperature changes (tried 2-5mm, 25-70mms, 195C-215C). Printed over 50 stringing towers, have never been able to get back to the quality I had before this install. Had it clog at 2mm and 3mm, even after installing filament “lubricator” and drying out filament in food dehydrator to remove moisture.
Sought help from multiple forums, but at this point after the final clog at 2mm (almost no retraction using the TH3D Tough Tube) I’m throwing in the towel. Way more headache than it is worth.
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Tim Hoogland –
Unless there is a physical defect with the hotend or it wasn’t re-assembled correctly then there shouldn’t be issues with jamming. Canola oil is recommended for the filament oiler/cleaner. If you want we can send out another if you want to see if you had one with a defect in it.
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Robert Colt (verified owner) –
I can confirm canola oil was used exactly as explained and built as specified. Happy to send pictures of the many string tests I made, how it’s invested installed, etc.
At the end of the day, after a week spent I could not get it to print reliably. Removed it and installed a new PTFE throat and have not had a problem. Please note this was done with a stock creality ender 5 hot end so maybe it works fine with the Tough Hot End, but I think I’ve dedicated more than enough time trying to get a reliable print using PLA.
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Tim Hoogland –
Pictures are not needed. If you want us to ship a new one out just email support@th3dstudio.com and put a note that Tim approved this. We’ll get a new one sent out.
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