Tough Titanium Heatbreak for Creality Machines and Tough Dual Hotend – Kraken Compatible
$7.99
Upgrade your Creality printer or printer with our Tough Dual Hotend with a true all metal TITANIUM heatbreak. Replaces the stock heatbreak on your hotend.
Fits all Creality machines listed below (see picture of hotend in product photos)
Ender 2/3/4/5
CR-10 (Standard, Mini, S4, S5)
CR-10S (Standard, Mini, S4, S5)
Also Fits Tevo Flash, Tevo Tornado, & our TH3D Tough Dual Hotend
In stock
Upgrade your Creality printer or printer with our Tough Dual Hotend with a true all metal TITANIUM heatbreak. Replaces the stock heatbreak on your hotend.
- Fits all Creality machines listed below (see picture of hotend in product photos)
- Ender 2/3/4/5
- CR-10 (Standard, Mini, S4, S5)
- CR-10S (Standard, Mini, S4, S5)
- Also Fits Tevo Flash & Tevo Tornado
- Fits our TH3D Tough Dual Hotend
- Fits E3D “Kraken” Style Hotends
- Does NOT fit the CR-10 V2/V3
- May fit other hotends. You can contact us with pictures of your hotend and existing heatbreak so we can verify compatibility.
- Smooth internal bore
- Transfers much less heat than steel or PTFE Style Heatbreaks for lower heat transferred to upper cold end heatsink
- Made from TC4 Titanium Alloy
- Heatbreaks are delicate parts.
- Never tighten your nozzle without holding the heater block with pliers. Doing it without can break the transition zone (the thinnest part).
- Nozzle crashes can also bend the heatbreak. If your heatbreak is bent in a nozzle crash slowly try to bend it back to the original position.
- Our warranty does not cover damage to the heatbreak from over-tightening or nozzle crashes, only defects in the product itself.
- This Titanium Heatbreak will be shorter than the Creality stock one. This is by design as the PTFE tube seats into the collar of our heatbreak.
- The heatbreak is secured into the heatsink with the black grub screw in the creality heatsink. See pictures below.
- Creality’s needs a longer path since it uses the PTFE in the melt zone and ours does not since it is all metal.
Tips for Using This Heatbreak
- We recommend if you are getting jamming with PLA (this can happen with ALL METAL heatbreaks from any manufacturer) to print a filament oiler.
- Like this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:492067. Stuff it with a sponge or fiber then lightly wet with CANOLA oil. This will oil the filament path and keep the PLA from sticking to the heatbreak on a longer retract.
- After using this for about a month or two your heatbreak should have a nice “seasoning” on the inside and use of an oiler will be needed less or not at all.
- Stick to under 3mm retractions. All metals will need less retraction than a PTFE lined hotend. 25-50mm/s depending on your machine setup. Wipe is recommended (2-5mm).
- Detailed write up on using all metal hotends: Using your All Metal Hotend
Creality Hotend Installation Pictures (other hotend parts NOT included):
Warranty & Support Information
TH3D Community Support - Technical support with for product it is handled through our TH3D Communities. You can get access to them on our Community Page. If you require tech support direct from the TH3D team to use/install the part it is available for an additional, hourly charge.
3 Months Warranty - Our warranty covers any and all defects with the product. If your product fails or has problems within the warranty period you can contact our support team by using the Contact Us link. This is for warranty related issues only, not technical support. Damage/Failure due to improper installation, usage, failure resulting from an issue with the machine the product is installed on, and/or modification or the product is not covered under warranty
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Jeffery Moss (verified owner) –
The strawberry nerds were AWESOME!!! Also they came with a Tough Titanium Heatbreak that looks nice also. But those NERDS!
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Dock Harris –
What is the measurements on these heat brakes will the work on my sv01?
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Tim Hoogland –
This is not for the SV01. The SV01 uses V6 style heatbreaks.
We have 2 types that work for the V6 style hotends:
PTFE: https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/high-temp-ptfe-v6-volcano-heatbreak/
Titanium: https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/th3d-e3d-compatible-titanium-heatbreak-1-75mm-filament-v6-and-volcano/
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mjbaldwin0352 (verified owner) –
This part technically converts the stock Creality hot end to an all metal hotend by raising the ptfe tube out of the heat zone. This means no more hot end fix and no more ptfe jamming due to leak or loss of ptfe pressure on the top of the nozzle.
You will have to reduce your retraction starting at 1mm and use retraction testing before printing anything else. You dont want to ruin a print without calibrating for this part. Thingiverse.com has stl’s for retraction testing.
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brgray1 (verified owner) –
This heatbreak turns a stock PTFE hotend into full metal. I have an Ender 5 that I converted to direct drive. I used the stock hotend but with this titanium heatbreak and a better heat block than stock (clamp style for the heater cartridge- better than a set screw digging into the cartridge). I’m printing PETG almost exclusively, along with some soft PLA on occassion. With the stock setup, I kept having issues of clogging the PFTE tube. With this setup, no issues, and PETG prints great (251C and 50mm/s).
Getting the heatbreak and nozzle seated really well to each other is critical. So is ensuring you have an optimal path for the filament when you assemble everything is important. When I put my stock hotend back together, I got the heatbreak into the block (positioned using Tim’s reference in his picture) and nozzle seated together loosely. Put the heatbreak into the heatsink (again, using Tim’s reference in his picture, tightened down the setscrew, ran a piece of PTFE tube (I used Capricorn, the tough tube would work well also- better tolerances than stock) into the heatbreak, ran a piece of filament down the tube into the end of the nozzle, and then tightened everything down. Heated up the unit, and tightened again (you may have to loosen the setscrew in the heatsink and align the heatblock where you want it to be, just make sure to use Tim’s reference points for positioning). With proper countertorque on the heatblock, you can tighten down the nozzle fairly firm. Don’t go crazy with it. Maybe 2ft-lbs max.
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Robert Colt (verified owner) –
Unfortunately cannot recommend this product. I’ve spent a week trying to get it to work on a stock Ender 5 hot end. No amount of retraction tweaking or temperature changes (tried 2-5mm, 25-70mms, 195C-215C). Printed over 50 stringing towers, have never been able to get back to the quality I had before this install. Had it clog at 2mm and 3mm, even after installing filament “lubricator” and drying out filament in food dehydrator to remove moisture.
Sought help from multiple forums, but at this point after the final clog at 2mm (almost no retraction using the TH3D Tough Tube) I’m throwing in the towel. Way more headache than it is worth.
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Rikk (verified owner) –
Well I just wanted follow up with results after dropping the retraction. I dropped the retraction to 2mm 45mms and it’s almost perfect! I’ll try 2.5 and how goes.
I’m happy with the results day the least and can’t wait to start using other filament compounds.
Thanks for the help!
Rikk
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Tim Hoogland –
Not a problem! Any all metal hotend needs adjustments. Once you get it dialed in it’s smooth sailing. Have a good one!
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Rikk (verified owner) –
I’ll give the 2mm retraction another shot and get back with the results.
Thanks
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Rikk (verified owner) –
I actually had similar issues… it was almost like it clogged after about 5-6 layers. I didn’t change anything as far as temp goes, I was in the process of calibrating the retraction but it wouldn’t let me even finish the test. I’m using an Ender 3 with a stock hotend and Capricorn tubing with 1.75 3D Solutech PLA filament. I’ve had this printer for about 4 months and I’m getting solid prints but I’m going to be using ABS so I wanted to upgrade the throat to allow for the hotter temps. I can still use this setup for ABS but I will be printing Nylon in the near future so I’m going to have to upgrade anyway. So the retraction im using in cura is pretty much generic 6.5mm and 45-50mms depending on the filament. Maybe I should drop the retraction down to nothing and go from there but I just think its weird that I would have to change the retraction that much for moving the filament a few mm.
Anyway let me know what you think and I’ll get out of your hair 🙂
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Tim Hoogland –
All metal in general needs low retraction. We have a full article on using an all metal hotend here: https://www.th3dstudio.com/knowledgebase/using-your-all-metal-hotend/
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Chris Nolan –
As this is the only negative review, I’m curious of if there is any new information. Was another sent, installed, or tested?
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Tim Hoogland –
As you can see we offered to send out a replacement but the customer never contacted us to get it sent out.
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Robert Colt (verified owner) –
I can confirm canola oil was used exactly as explained and built as specified. Happy to send pictures of the many string tests I made, how it’s invested installed, etc.
At the end of the day, after a week spent I could not get it to print reliably. Removed it and installed a new PTFE throat and have not had a problem. Please note this was done with a stock creality ender 5 hot end so maybe it works fine with the Tough Hot End, but I think I’ve dedicated more than enough time trying to get a reliable print using PLA.
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Tim Hoogland –
Pictures are not needed. If you want us to ship a new one out just email support@th3dstudio.com and put a note that Tim approved this. We’ll get a new one sent out.
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Tim Hoogland –
Unless there is a physical defect with the hotend or it wasn’t re-assembled correctly then there shouldn’t be issues with jamming. Canola oil is recommended for the filament oiler/cleaner. If you want we can send out another if you want to see if you had one with a defect in it.
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Ken (verified owner) –
So far so good. Printed a couple small items, with no sticking, and no clogging. Nice upgrade for my CR-20 Pro
*Update*
Wasn’t a fan of it being held in place with just the grub screw so I printed a spacer to put in the heat sink so I can using the factory screws to tighten it up.
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Question
KH –
What is the ID of the filament path? 2 mm or 1.8?
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Tim Hoogland –
2.0mm. All the heatbreaks we carry are 2.0mm as that is what most hotend manufacturers specify for the ID of a heatbreak.
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Question
Will Bluel –
I bought this product and noticed that it is about 5mm shorter than the stock Ender 3 heat break. Is it supposed to be like that, and if so, how do I install it securely?
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Tim Hoogland –
Yes it is. It is secured with the grub screw in the heatsink. See the pictures on the product page for installation information.
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Austin Ford (verified owner) –
Updated 5/24/2020: Changed from 1 to 2 star based solely on Tim’s effort with ensuring I am satisfied with the product.
I bought this heatbreak to try and enable my Ender 5 to print with higher temp materials, but I have so far been unable to even print PLA without a web of strings. I installed the heatbreak on Sunday 5/17/2020 and have spent the past 6 days attempting to dial in the retraction distance, temperature, z-lift, wipe and retraction speed settings to get rid of the strings & blobs to no avail. I have gone through approximately 200 grams (metered by Octoprint with the filament manager plugin) of filament on test prints using PLA+ (Sunlu brand, 4 different rolls & colors, 2 new & 2 old both old rolls print without strings on the Prusa) & PLA (the spool that came with the printer, still vacuum sealed from the factory before today).
I have tried retraction settings ranging from 1 mm (WAY too little) through 4 mm (clogged on the 3rd retraction), temperature ranges on the PLA+ from 190-235, z-lift of 0-0.6 mm, retraction speed from 20-60 mm/s, deretraction speed from 20-60 mm/s, wipe of 10-100%, with and without retract on layer change. I have oiled the filament using canola oil, and dry PTFE lube with the only noticeable difference after oiling being that the hotend was less likely to clog on the higher retraction distance settings.
Before changing the heatbreak from stock to this one, the only problem I had with the printer was not being able to safely print above 260C. After changing to this heatbreak, I need to detangle my hotend fan because the strings that don’t stay connected to the print end up there.
If I was trying to print a model of a coral reef (or a realistic spider web) it wouldn’t be a problem, but I’m printing simple test towers to tune retraction settings and have failed miserably at that endeavor.
I really wanted to be able to leave a good review of this product, but after the trouble I’ve had with it I won’t recommend it.
Edit: I forgot to mention, I also changed the nozzle to a brand new one during all the testing in a last ditch attempt to remedy the stringing.
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Austin Ford (verified owner) –
I’m using the stock hotend fan and I’m using this hotend mod: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4062242 with dual 4010 part cooling fans. I’m not experiencing any heat creep with the stock heatbreak and the tough PTFE tube.
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Austin Ford (verified owner) –
Tim, I would be happy to send it back to you guys so that you can inspect it for defects. While I don’t have the tools/equipment necessary to do a proper inspection of an item like this, it does not appear to have any defects in workmanship or materials. There do not appear to be any grooves or ridges on the interior or exterior.
After reinstalling the stock heatbreak I was able to get my Ender 5 printing using the same filaments tested with the titanium heatbreak with no blobs or strings within 3 hours and 10 test prints. I suspect the problem I was having may be due to heat creep because of the shorter filament path between the heatsink and the heatblock threads in comparison to the stock heatbreak.
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Tim Hoogland –
What fan are you using on the hotend to cool it?
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Austin Ford (verified owner) –
I have not contacted support. I gave up on trying to get rid of the strings using this heatbreak and reinstalled the stock heatbreak. Hopefully the tough PTFE tube that I purchased with this heatbreak will withstand 275C (Ender 5 max temp using your universal firmware) without problems.
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Tim Hoogland –
Would you like us to send you a return label? We’d like to inspect it to see if maybe you got one with a machining defect in it. This is not typical for this heatbreak.
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Tim Hoogland –
Sorry you are having trouble. Did you try contacting our support yet? You can reach them here: Contact Us
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Brent Adams (verified owner) –
Thank you for taking the time to reply. However, after I received one of these I used a caliper to measure the ID and got 1.85 mm, about the same as the entry of a typical brass nozzle. Unfortunate because this makes for some pretty tight filament path (a slight bottleneck if you will) and the slightest bit of distortion of filament could result in jamming. I am using this heat choke successfully however by keeping the pressure as low as possible in the extruder gears. The extruder can flatten the filament a little when it does a lot of retraction work thus making it just a hair to wide for the above mentioned bottleneck. Perhaps this information will be of some help to someone? I do feel that this is a quality product and am proud to have obtained it for such a reasonable price. Thanks Tim.
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