Tough Titanium Heatbreak for Creality Machines and Tough Dual Hotend
$6.99
Upgrade your Creality printer or printer with our Tough Dual Hotend with a true all-metal TITANIUM heatbreak. Replaces the stock heatbreak on your hotend.
Fits all Creality machines listed below, also Fits Tevo Flash, Tevo Tornado, & our TH3D Tough Dual Hotend. Pick up some Thermal Grease as well to complete your upgrade.
In stock
Upgrade your Creality printer or printer with our Tough Dual Hotend with a true all metal TITANIUM heatbreak. Replaces the stock heatbreak on your hotend.
- Fits all Creality machines listed below (see picture of hotend in product photos)
- Ender 2/3/4/5/5 Plus/6
- CR-10 (Standard, Mini, S4, S5)
- CR-10S (Standard, Mini, S4, S5)
- Also Fits Tevo Flash & Tevo Tornado
- Fits our TH3D Tough Dual Hotend
- Fits E3D “Kraken” Style Hotends
- Does NOT fit the CR-10 V2/V3
- May fit other hotends. You can contact us with pictures of your hotend and existing heatbreak so we can verify compatibility.
- Smooth internal bore
- Transfers much less heat than steel or PTFE Style Heatbreaks for lower heat transferred to upper cold end heatsink
- Made from TC4 Titanium Alloy
- Length: ~23mm
- Heatbreaks are delicate parts.
- Never tighten your nozzle without holding the heater block with pliers. Doing it without can break the transition zone (the thinnest part).
- Nozzle crashes can also bend the heatbreak. If your heatbreak is bent in a nozzle crash slowly try to bend it back to the original position.
- Our warranty does not cover damage to the heatbreak from over-tightening or nozzle crashes, only defects in the product itself.
- This Titanium Heatbreak will be shorter than the Creality stock one. This is by design as the PTFE tube seats into the collar of our heatbreak.
- The heatbreak is secured into the heatsink with the black grub screw in the creality heatsink. See pictures below.
- Creality’s needs a longer path since it uses the PTFE in the melt zone and ours does not since it is all metal.
Tips for Using This Heatbreak
Installation directions: Heatbreak Installation Information
Oil it - We recommend if you are getting jamming with PLA (this can happen with ALL METAL heatbreaks from any manufacturer) to print a filament oiler. Like this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:492067. Stuff it with a sponge or fiber then lightly wet with CANOLA oil. This will oil the filament path and keep the PLA from sticking to the heatbreak on a longer retract. After using this for about a month or two your heatbreak should have a nice "seasoning" on the inside and use of an oiler will be needed less or not at all.
Lower Retraction - Stick to under 3mm retractions. All metals will need less retraction than a PTFE lined hotend. 25-50mm/s depending on your machine setup. Wipe is recommended (2-5mm).
Thermal Paste (Optional, but recommended) - When installing the heartbreak you can apply thermal paste/grease (like what is used on computer CPUs) to the outside that inserts into the heatsink before installation. This will improve thermal transfer from the heatbreak to the heatsink.
More Details on All-Metal Hotends - Detailed write up on using all metal hotends: Using your All Metal Hotend
Creality Hotend Installation Pictures (other hotend parts NOT included):
Warranty Information
3 Months Warranty - Our warranty covers any and all defects with the product. If your product fails or has problems within the warranty period you can contact our support team by using the Contact Us link.
Damage/Failure due to improper installation, improper usage, failure resulting from an issue with the machine the product is installed on, 3rd party products connected to our product, and/or modification of the product are not covered under warranty.
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Jeffery Moss (verified owner) –
The strawberry nerds were AWESOME!!! Also they came with a Tough Titanium Heatbreak that looks nice also. But those NERDS!
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Dock Harris –
What is the measurements on these heat brakes will the work on my sv01?
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Tim Hoogland –
This is not for the SV01. The SV01 uses V6 style heatbreaks.
We have 2 types that work for the V6 style hotends:
PTFE: https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/high-temp-ptfe-v6-volcano-heatbreak/
Titanium: https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/th3d-e3d-compatible-titanium-heatbreak-1-75mm-filament-v6-and-volcano/
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mjbaldwin0352 (verified owner) –
This part technically converts the stock Creality hot end to an all metal hotend by raising the ptfe tube out of the heat zone. This means no more hot end fix and no more ptfe jamming due to leak or loss of ptfe pressure on the top of the nozzle.
You will have to reduce your retraction starting at 1mm and use retraction testing before printing anything else. You dont want to ruin a print without calibrating for this part. Thingiverse.com has stl’s for retraction testing.
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brgray1 (verified owner) –
This heatbreak turns a stock PTFE hotend into full metal. I have an Ender 5 that I converted to direct drive. I used the stock hotend but with this titanium heatbreak and a better heat block than stock (clamp style for the heater cartridge- better than a set screw digging into the cartridge). I’m printing PETG almost exclusively, along with some soft PLA on occassion. With the stock setup, I kept having issues of clogging the PFTE tube. With this setup, no issues, and PETG prints great (251C and 50mm/s).
Getting the heatbreak and nozzle seated really well to each other is critical. So is ensuring you have an optimal path for the filament when you assemble everything is important. When I put my stock hotend back together, I got the heatbreak into the block (positioned using Tim’s reference in his picture) and nozzle seated together loosely. Put the heatbreak into the heatsink (again, using Tim’s reference in his picture, tightened down the setscrew, ran a piece of PTFE tube (I used Capricorn, the tough tube would work well also- better tolerances than stock) into the heatbreak, ran a piece of filament down the tube into the end of the nozzle, and then tightened everything down. Heated up the unit, and tightened again (you may have to loosen the setscrew in the heatsink and align the heatblock where you want it to be, just make sure to use Tim’s reference points for positioning). With proper countertorque on the heatblock, you can tighten down the nozzle fairly firm. Don’t go crazy with it. Maybe 2ft-lbs max.
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Ken (verified owner) –
So far so good. Printed a couple small items, with no sticking, and no clogging. Nice upgrade for my CR-20 Pro
*Update*
Wasn’t a fan of it being held in place with just the grub screw so I printed a spacer to put in the heat sink so I can using the factory screws to tighten it up.
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Question
KH –
What is the ID of the filament path? 2 mm or 1.8?
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Tim Hoogland –
2.0mm. All the heatbreaks we carry are 2.0mm as that is what most hotend manufacturers specify for the ID of a heatbreak.
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Question
Will Bluel –
I bought this product and noticed that it is about 5mm shorter than the stock Ender 3 heat break. Is it supposed to be like that, and if so, how do I install it securely?
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Tim Hoogland –
Yes it is. It is secured with the grub screw in the heatsink. See the pictures on the product page for installation information.
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Question
dsteelemd –
Is this compatible with CR-6SE ?
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Tim Hoogland –
This heatbreak does not fit the CR-6 series.
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Question
W Miller –
I have an ender 3 V2. Would installing this enable me to SAFELY print at temps suitable for PETG, Nylon, and ABS, without the PTFE Bowden tube offgassing fumes?
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Tim Hoogland –
Your stock hotend thermistor is going to top out around 290C and that is pushing it to the max, just wanted to note that. So if you are printing @ 280C or lower then you will be OK on the electronic side of things. And there will not be any off-gassing of the PTFE because this will remove the PTFE from the melt zone inside the heaterblock.
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