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$7.99
Upgrade your Creality printer or printer with our Tough Dual Hotend with a true all metal TITANIUM heatbreak. Replaces the stock heatbreak on your hotend.
- Fits all Creality machines listed below (see picture of hotend in product photos)
- Ender 2/3/4/5
- CR-10 (All Sizes)
- CR-10S (All Sizes)
- Also Fits Tevo Flash & Tevo Tornado
- Fits our TH3D Tough Dual Hotend
In stock
Upgrade your Creality printer or printer with our Tough Dual Hotend with a true all metal TITANIUM heatbreak. Replaces the stock heatbreak on your hotend.
- Fits all Creality machines listed below (see picture of hotend in product photos)
- Ender 2/3/4/5
- CR-10 (All Sizes)
- CR-10S (All Sizes)
- Also Fits Tevo Flash & Tevo Tornado
- Fits our TH3D Tough Dual Hotend
- May fit other hotends. You can contact us with pictures of your hotend and existing heatbreak so we can verify compatibility.
- Smooth internal bore
- Transfers much less heat than steel or PTFE Style Heatbreaks for lower heat transferred to upper cold end heatsink
- Made from TC4 Titanium Alloy
- Heatbreaks are delicate parts.
- Never tighten your nozzle without holding the heater block with pliers. Doing it without can break the transition zone (the thinnest part).
- Nozzle crashes can also bend the heatbreak. If your heatbreak is bent in a nozzle crash slowly try to bend it back to the original position.
- Our warranty does not cover damage to the heatbreak from over-tightening or nozzle crashes, only defects in the product itself.
- This Titanium Heatbreak will be shorter than the Creality stock one. This is by design as the PTFE tube seats into the collar of our heatbreak.
- The heatbreak is secured into the heatsink with the black grub screw in the creality heatsink. See pictures below.
- Creality’s needs a longer path since it uses the PTFE in the melt zone and ours does not since it is all metal.
Tips for Using This Heatbreak
- We recommend if you are getting jamming with PLA (this can happen with ALL METAL heatbreaks from any manufacturer) to print a filament oiler.
- Like this one:Â https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:492067. Stuff it with a sponge or fiber then lightly wet with CANOLA oil. This will oil the filament path and keep the PLA from sticking to the heatbreak on a longer retract.
- After using this for about a month or two your heatbreak should have a nice “seasoning” on the inside and use of an oiler will be needed less or not at all.
- Stick to under 3mm retractions. All metals will need less retraction than a PTFE lined hotend. 25-50mm/s depending on your machine setup. Wipe is recommended (2-5mm).
- Detailed write up on using all metal hotends: https://www.th3dstudio.com/knowledgebase/using-your-all-metal-hotend/
Creality Hotend Installation Pictures (other hotend parts NOT included):
Warranty & Support Information
Technical Support: TH3D Community Support
- To get technical support with this product it is handled through our TH3D Communities
- Forum: https://Forum.TH3DStudio.com/
- Discord: http://Discord.TH3DStudio.com/
- Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/th3dstudio/
- Technical support is not included through the TH3D Helpdesk at no charge
- You are welcome to ask quick questions about a Community Support product through our helpdesk but in-depth 1 on 1 technical support is not included.
- If you require require a more personalized level of technical support it can be purchased separately in 1 hour blocks of time. Contact Us to get a time-slot paid for and scheduled through one of our technicians.
Warranty Info: 90 Days Warranty
- Our warranty covers any and all defects with the product.
- If your product fails or has problems within the warranty period you can contact our support team by emailing [email protected] or by using the Contact Us link.
- This is for warranty related issues only, not technical support.
- Damage/Failure due to improper installation, usage, failure resulting from an issue with the machine the product is installed on, and/or modification or the product is not covered under warranty
| Weight | 0.1 oz |
|---|---|
| Dimensions | 0.2 × 0.2 × 0.2 in |
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Jeffery Moss (verified owner) –
The strawberry nerds were AWESOME!!! Also they came with a Tough Titanium Heatbreak that looks nice also. But those NERDS!
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Robert Colt (verified owner) –
Unfortunately cannot recommend this product. I’ve spent a week trying to get it to work on a stock Ender 5 hot end. No amount of retraction tweaking or temperature changes (tried 2-5mm, 25-70mms, 195C-215C). Printed over 50 stringing towers, have never been able to get back to the quality I had before this install. Had it clog at 2mm and 3mm, even after installing filament “lubricator” and drying out filament in food dehydrator to remove moisture.
Sought help from multiple forums, but at this point after the final clog at 2mm (almost no retraction using the TH3D Tough Tube) I’m throwing in the towel. Way more headache than it is worth.
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Rikk (verified owner) –
Well I just wanted follow up with results after dropping the retraction. I dropped the retraction to 2mm 45mms and it’s almost perfect! I’ll try 2.5 and how goes.
I’m happy with the results day the least and can’t wait to start using other filament compounds.
Thanks for the help!
Rikk
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Tim Hoogland –
Not a problem! Any all metal hotend needs adjustments. Once you get it dialed in it’s smooth sailing. Have a good one!
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Rikk (verified owner) –
I’ll give the 2mm retraction another shot and get back with the results.
Thanks
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Rikk (verified owner) –
I actually had similar issues… it was almost like it clogged after about 5-6 layers. I didn’t change anything as far as temp goes, I was in the process of calibrating the retraction but it wouldn’t let me even finish the test. I’m using an Ender 3 with a stock hotend and Capricorn tubing with 1.75 3D Solutech PLA filament. I’ve had this printer for about 4 months and I’m getting solid prints but I’m going to be using ABS so I wanted to upgrade the throat to allow for the hotter temps. I can still use this setup for ABS but I will be printing Nylon in the near future so I’m going to have to upgrade anyway. So the retraction im using in cura is pretty much generic 6.5mm and 45-50mms depending on the filament. Maybe I should drop the retraction down to nothing and go from there but I just think its weird that I would have to change the retraction that much for moving the filament a few mm.
Anyway let me know what you think and I’ll get out of your hair 🙂
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Tim Hoogland –
All metal in general needs low retraction. We have a full article on using an all metal hotend here: https://www.th3dstudio.com/knowledgebase/using-your-all-metal-hotend/
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Chris Nolan –
As this is the only negative review, I’m curious of if there is any new information. Was another sent, installed, or tested?
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Tim Hoogland –
As you can see we offered to send out a replacement but the customer never contacted us to get it sent out.
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Robert Colt (verified owner) –
I can confirm canola oil was used exactly as explained and built as specified. Happy to send pictures of the many string tests I made, how it’s invested installed, etc.
At the end of the day, after a week spent I could not get it to print reliably. Removed it and installed a new PTFE throat and have not had a problem. Please note this was done with a stock creality ender 5 hot end so maybe it works fine with the Tough Hot End, but I think I’ve dedicated more than enough time trying to get a reliable print using PLA.
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Tim Hoogland –
Pictures are not needed. If you want us to ship a new one out just email [email protected] and put a note that Tim approved this. We’ll get a new one sent out.
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Tim Hoogland –
Unless there is a physical defect with the hotend or it wasn’t re-assembled correctly then there shouldn’t be issues with jamming. Canola oil is recommended for the filament oiler/cleaner. If you want we can send out another if you want to see if you had one with a defect in it.
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brgray1 (verified owner) –
This heatbreak turns a stock PTFE hotend into full metal. I have an Ender 5 that I converted to direct drive. I used the stock hotend but with this titanium heatbreak and a better heat block than stock (clamp style for the heater cartridge- better than a set screw digging into the cartridge). I’m printing PETG almost exclusively, along with some soft PLA on occassion. With the stock setup, I kept having issues of clogging the PFTE tube. With this setup, no issues, and PETG prints great (251C and 50mm/s).
Getting the heatbreak and nozzle seated really well to each other is critical. So is ensuring you have an optimal path for the filament when you assemble everything is important. When I put my stock hotend back together, I got the heatbreak into the block (positioned using Tim’s reference in his picture) and nozzle seated together loosely. Put the heatbreak into the heatsink (again, using Tim’s reference in his picture, tightened down the setscrew, ran a piece of PTFE tube (I used Capricorn, the tough tube would work well also- better tolerances than stock) into the heatbreak, ran a piece of filament down the tube into the end of the nozzle, and then tightened everything down. Heated up the unit, and tightened again (you may have to loosen the setscrew in the heatsink and align the heatblock where you want it to be, just make sure to use Tim’s reference points for positioning). With proper countertorque on the heatblock, you can tighten down the nozzle fairly firm. Don’t go crazy with it. Maybe 2ft-lbs max.
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Question
Will Bluel –
I bought this product and noticed that it is about 5mm shorter than the stock Ender 3 heat break. Is it supposed to be like that, and if so, how do I install it securely?
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Tim Hoogland –
Yes it is. It is secured with the grub screw in the heatsink. See the pictures on the product page for installation information.
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Question
KH –
What is the ID of the filament path? 2 mm or 1.8?
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Tim Hoogland –
2.0mm. All the heatbreaks we carry are 2.0mm as that is what most hotend manufacturers specify for the ID of a heatbreak.
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Ken (verified owner) –
So far so good. Printed a couple small items, with no sticking, and no clogging. Nice upgrade for my CR-20 Pro
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mjbaldwin0352 (verified owner) –
This part technically converts the stock Creality hot end to an all metal hotend by raising the ptfe tube out of the heat zone. This means no more hot end fix and no more ptfe jamming due to leak or loss of ptfe pressure on the top of the nozzle.
You will have to reduce your retraction starting at 1mm and use retraction testing before printing anything else. You dont want to ruin a print without calibrating for this part. Thingiverse.com has stl’s for retraction testing.
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Question
Brent Adams (verified owner) –
What is the inside bore diameter for this heat choke?
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Tim Hoogland –
2.0mm is the ID for the filament path. The PTFE collar side is about 4.05mm
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