$14.99
- High Amp, Oversized FET for cool operation.
- Rated up to 30A @ 12V-24V DC
- Large Screw Terminals
- Includes 6″ Control Wire – Connection from MOSFET to Printer Board
- Wiring Diagram Below
- Recommended Printed Mounts Below
- Need power wire? Click here for our 1 Meter 12 Gauge Power wire pack.
In stock
Upgrade your heated bed to heat quicker (if you have a stock MOSFET or none at all) with our high amp MOSFET board. You can use this with heated beds or hotends (if you are wanting maximum protection). This will handle up to 30A at 12V-24V. Compatible with PID regulation (used in our firmware). Works with the CR-10 printers and any other machine that runs on 12-24V on the board and heated bed. Make sure to set the voltage jumper to the printer voltage. Works on 12V or 24V.
CR-10 Mounting notes: Use the basic mounting plate below and glue the plate with hot melt or super glue between the rear 40mm fan and the control board. This will allow for proper cooling of the MOSFET.
- High Amp, Oversized FET for cool operation.
- Rated up to 30A @ 12V-24V DC, tested in house to run at up to 30A on 12-24V DC.
- Large Screw Terminals
- Includes 6″ Control Wire – Connection from MOSFET to Printer Board
- The control wire input (B-CTL header) is not polarity sensitive as there is a full bridge rectifier onboard on this MOSFET board.
- Wiring Diagram Below
- Recommended Printed Mounts Below
Printed Parts Compatible with this product:
- Basic Mounting Plate (TH3D Design)
- Mounting Plate for Creality Stock MOSFET Location (TH3D Design)
- https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2976220
- https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2861113
- https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2847097
Installation notes: If you are using a mount that requires you to screw the mosfet PCB to the mount make the screws you are using (not included) have the standard hex heads as seen in the installation video below and not a larger “pan head” type as larger head screws can touch components on the PCB.
Installation Video:
Wiring Diagram:
If you have the V1 MOSFET with the gold screw terminals click here for the wiring diagram.
Warranty & Support Information
Technical Support: TH3D Community Support
- To get technical support with this product it is handled through our TH3D Communities
- Forum: https://Forum.TH3DStudio.com/
- Discord: http://Discord.TH3DStudio.com/
- Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/th3dstudio/
- You are welcome to ask quick questions about a Community Support product through our helpdesk but in-depth 1 on 1 technical support is not included.
Warranty Info: 90 Days Warranty
- Our warranty covers any and all defects with the product.
- If your product fails or has problems within the warranty period you can contact our support team by emailing Support@TH3DStudio.com or by using the Contact Us link. This is for warranty related issues only, not technical support.
- Damage/Failure due to improper installation, usage, failure resulting from an issue with the machine the product is installed on, and/or modification or the product is not covered under warranty
| Weight | 2 oz |
|---|---|
| Dimensions | 4 × 4 × 4 in |
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Question
Michael –
Would I see any issues installing this in my anycubic i3 mega?
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Patrick Bourdeau –
I am ordering this part to replace my burnd out bed module in my cr10s-pro, but the connection is different from the video, do you have any instructions for my machine model? and do I need to get the replacement cables? Mine are ok. Thank you
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Tim Hoogland –
This is a universal part and we do not have machine specific guides as it would be impossible to cover all models.
Luckily, we have that machine so here are some tips: For that machine (CR-10S Pro) we did add 2 new wires to feed the MOSFET from the printer PSU and that lets it connect like in the installation video, ours burnt out as well. We carry pre-crimped wires that work here: https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/1-meter-replacement-12-gauge-ender-3-power-wires/
One thing to note is that one of the power leads goes directly to the PSU. Only the negative connection for the bed is switched on/off by the MOSFET (see the installation video on the page above and see where we show the Ender 5 Plus installation as its similar). So you can connect the shorter wire coming from the bed directly to the V+ side of the power supply and then run the longer one to the Bed Negative (-) screw terminal on our MOSFET. The 2 positive terminals on the mosfet are just connected together on the PCB, the mosfet does need the positive connected though to function. So at the few least you should have 3 of the 4 screw terminals connected (the power ones and the negative for the bed output). Then the signal side (the thinner 2 pin connector included with the mosfet) is connected to the heated bed output on your printer control board (this is where the stock one connected to on that machine).
If you need further help please check out our community resources here: Community Support Links
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Tim Hoogland –
You’d just need to find a place inside the base to stash the mosfet itself. There’s a lot of room in that printer so you should be fine if you just take a look. There are printable spacers on the page that can be fixed into your case with adhesive or screw mounts.
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Question
Matthew –
What gauge are the signal wires?
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Tim Hoogland –
22AWG. These carry no current, just on/off signal.
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Question
James Geater (verified owner) –
On the Ender 5 plus do you need to print the mount? and if so does it need to be ABS or will PLA or PETG work?
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Tim Hoogland –
You need to print the mount for the machine you are using, this is a universal part – not machine specific. The ones linked on the product page for the creality printers will work with the Ender 5 Plus. PLA or PETG are fine for this part as it doesn’t get hot enough to warp PLA.
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Question
arbertrand (verified owner) –
The red led is flickering and power supply is making ticking noise around 60C. It doesn’t affect performance. Do you happen to know what might cause this?
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Tim Hoogland –
Its the PID bed regulation. Disable it in your firmware if it bothers you.
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Question
Allen –
Is this compatible with wanhao i3 plus ( aka Monoprice Maker select plus IIIP) ?
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Tim Hoogland –
The i3 plus is a 24V machine and this is a universal part so it will work. You may need additional wiring to connect to the PSU of the printer. 14-16 gauge would be fine for that machine.
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iain.wheeley (verified owner) –
Easy installation but haven’t noticed any material change in the bed heat-up speed on my Ender 5 with EZABL. Manages rock solid temps and will go higher than stock.
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Tim Hoogland –
Ender 5 isn’t going to see much speed increase. The CR-10 machines do though. But like you see the temps will go higher than stock thanks to the lower resistance across the FET.
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Justin (verified owner) –
This upgrade makes a marked difference in the performance of your CR-10 heat bed and for a small investment. Highly recommend for anyone with a CR-10 printer.
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deleonc (verified owner) –
replaced stock mosfet on heatbed with this one, bed heats up quicker then the old stock one on my Cr-10
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Byron –
Easy install on a Ender-3. I replaced all stock wires and xt60 connectors with beefier higher quality parts. Noted a huge difference in warmup time.
Tried printing ABS with the stock mosfets and layer separation was a huge problem, as I could only eek 90c on the bed temperature. Now it cranks to 120c no problem, fast and stable and ABS prints are much improved.
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Ted (verified owner) –
Works great so far, not too hard to install. Bed heats up faster on my CR10. I’m thinking of buying a second for the hotend.
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Robert –
How and where did you mount the mofset? Inside the control box with a special bracket?
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Tim Hoogland –
Depends on your machine. There is a link to a Creality adapter part on the product page if you’re replacing the Creality stock MOSFET.
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Alex Eckman (verified owner) –
Excellent product that is made well and provides extra peace of mind. Installed on a Maker Select V2, and is much recommended. Install guide is simple to follow and wiring is easy. 10 minute install.
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