High Amp 12V/24V MOSFET V2 – Heated Bed or Hotend
$12.99
High Amp, Oversized FET for cool operation.
Rated up to 30A @ 12V-24V DC
Large Screw Terminals, Includes 6″ Control Wire – Connection from MOSFET to Printer Board
Wiring Diagram & Compatible Printed Mounts Below
Need power wire? Click here for our 1 Meter 12 Gauge Power wire pack.
In stock
Upgrade your heated bed to heat quicker (if you have a stock MOSFET or none at all) with our high amp MOSFET board. You can use this with heated beds or hotends (if you are wanting maximum protection). This will handle up to 30A at 12V-24V. Compatible with PID regulation (used in our firmware). Works with any printer that runs on 12-24V on the board and heated bed. Make sure to set the voltage jumper to the printer voltage. Works on 12V or 24V.
- High Amp, Oversized FET for cool operation.
- Rated up to 30A @ 12V-24V DC, tested in house to run at up to 30A on 12-24V DC.
- Large Screw Terminals
- Includes 6″ Control Wire – Connection from MOSFET to Printer Board
- The control wire input (B-CTL header) is not polarity sensitive as there is a full-bridge rectifier onboard on this MOSFET board.
Installation, Wiring Diagram, & STLs for Mounting
Installation information, wiring diagram, and STL files to mount this to your printer (Universal and Creality Specific options are available) are all located in the Help Center here: TH3D High Amp 12V/24V MOSFET V2 Installation Information and Mounts – TH3D Studio LLC
Part Fitment/Installation
This is a universal 3D printer part. That means it will work on almost any 3D printer (check your printer voltage and part voltage) with the correct mount for your specific machine. Thingiverse is a wonderful place to locate mounts and we also have printed parts in our shop for some universal parts.
It is up to you to determine and select a mount for your specific printer model (or design one) to install this part on your machine and wire it up to your machine (if applicable). You are welcome to Contact Us for recommendations for your particular printer model for mounting options that are available online if searching yourself does not yield any results.
Warranty Information
3 Months Warranty - Our warranty covers any and all defects with the product. If your product fails or has problems within the warranty period you can contact our support team by using the Contact Us link.
Damage/Failure due to improper installation, improper usage, failure resulting from an issue with the machine the product is installed on, 3rd party products connected to our product, and/or modification of the product are not covered under warranty.
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Question
James Geater (verified owner) –
On the Ender 5 plus do you need to print the mount? and if so does it need to be ABS or will PLA or PETG work?
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Tim Hoogland –
You need to print the mount for the machine you are using, this is a universal part – not machine specific. The ones linked on the product page for the creality printers will work with the Ender 5 Plus. PLA or PETG are fine for this part as it doesn’t get hot enough to warp PLA.
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Question
dopeylee21 (verified owner) –
Would a Prusa i3 MK3S+ benefit from installing one of these MOSFETs?
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Tim Hoogland (verified owner) –
Haven’t tested the heat up times on that machine but Prusa usually uses decent MOSFETs on their beds.
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David (verified owner) –
I’d like to definitely recommend these FETs for any printer no matter what bed size you have. Honestly for a piece of mind anyone should get these.
But also be prepared to extend your power wires a bit. I had some spare high quality RC hobby DC power cables laying around and some screw connectors and ferrule for each end. Make sure your crimps are nice and strong before you connect anything and I used a bit of heat shrink on each end to tidy things up. Make sure to get higher quality DC power cables from a RC hobby store, I don’t trust the cheap stuff, I did some measuring and found that the cheap knock offs don’t have copper like they used too. I bought two of these, one for my Ender5Pro and my Ender3Pro.
I would also use a bit of thermal paste between the heat sink and FET, I used some artic silver. I ran my bed at about 85C for about a few hours and noted that the heat sink temp on the FET would get to about 40C, no where near hot enough to cause issues, which is great and plenty of room for expansion for higher heating elements. I ran a PID on the bed and some of my values changed but not by much, though I’m using Klipper firmware as this is the best 😉
Overall, great little upgrade.
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Question
Randall Malone –
Could you run this to the bed and hot end or would you need 1 for each?
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Tim Hoogland (verified owner) –
These are usually used for beds but you can use them on hotends if you want. Usually, most boards are fine running the hotend from their onboard MOSFETs but it won’t hurt anything to put one on the hotend.
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john.rocha (verified owner) –
Had no trouble installing this device. It is well made and I feel much safer having this on. My bed wires used to get a little warm and now they don’t. I don’t understand why, because the bed heats up faster. But I am not going to question it. The Creality Mosfet had some dark, appearing to be burned or stressed out marks and it did not smell all that good. Perhaps I had a bad one because my printer is only 2 months old. No more worries now
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Question
Kadin Karr –
Would this be compatible with an aftermarket heat bed like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FQ7FQHG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?smid=AOC2X3FACJMG3&psc=1
questioning this for a CR-10 s5.
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Tim Hoogland (verified owner) –
Our MOSFET is for DC beds only, the product you linked is an AC bed. You would want an SSR to control an AC bed. We carry those as well here: Mager SSR
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Question
robert.helble (verified owner) –
can this be used for hot end and does my circuit diagram look correct
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Tim Hoogland (verified owner) –
Yes, that is correct but honestly not needed for the hotend. But it will work fine. 🙂
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Alex Eckman (verified owner) –
Excellent product that is made well and provides extra peace of mind. Installed on a Maker Select V2, and is much recommended. Install guide is simple to follow and wiring is easy. 10 minute install.
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Question
Matthew –
What gauge are the signal wires?
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Tim Hoogland –
22AWG. These carry no current, just on/off signal.
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Question
arbertrand (verified owner) –
The red led is flickering and power supply is making ticking noise around 60C. It doesn’t affect performance. Do you happen to know what might cause this?
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Tim Hoogland –
Its the PID bed regulation. Disable it in your firmware if it bothers you.
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Question
Allen –
Is this compatible with wanhao i3 plus ( aka Monoprice Maker select plus IIIP) ?
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Tim Hoogland –
The i3 plus is a 24V machine and this is a universal part so it will work. You may need additional wiring to connect to the PSU of the printer. 14-16 gauge would be fine for that machine.
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Question
Michael –
Would I see any issues installing this in my anycubic i3 mega?
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Patrick Bourdeau –
I am ordering this part to replace my burnd out bed module in my cr10s-pro, but the connection is different from the video, do you have any instructions for my machine model? and do I need to get the replacement cables? Mine are ok. Thank you
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Tim Hoogland –
This is a universal part and we do not have machine specific guides as it would be impossible to cover all models.
Luckily, we have that machine so here are some tips: For that machine (CR-10S Pro) we did add 2 new wires to feed the MOSFET from the printer PSU and that lets it connect like in the installation video, ours burnt out as well. We carry pre-crimped wires that work here: https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/1-meter-replacement-12-gauge-ender-3-power-wires/
One thing to note is that one of the power leads goes directly to the PSU. Only the negative connection for the bed is switched on/off by the MOSFET (see the installation video on the page above and see where we show the Ender 5 Plus installation as its similar). So you can connect the shorter wire coming from the bed directly to the V+ side of the power supply and then run the longer one to the Bed Negative (-) screw terminal on our MOSFET. The 2 positive terminals on the mosfet are just connected together on the PCB, the mosfet does need the positive connected though to function. So at the few least you should have 3 of the 4 screw terminals connected (the power ones and the negative for the bed output). Then the signal side (the thinner 2 pin connector included with the mosfet) is connected to the heated bed output on your printer control board (this is where the stock one connected to on that machine).
If you need further help please check out our community resources here: Community Support Links
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Tim Hoogland –
You’d just need to find a place inside the base to stash the mosfet itself. There’s a lot of room in that printer so you should be fine if you just take a look. There are printable spacers on the page that can be fixed into your case with adhesive or screw mounts.
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iain.wheeley (verified owner) –
Easy installation but haven’t noticed any material change in the bed heat-up speed on my Ender 5 with EZABL. Manages rock solid temps and will go higher than stock.
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Tim Hoogland –
Ender 5 isn’t going to see much speed increase. The CR-10 machines do though. But like you see the temps will go higher than stock thanks to the lower resistance across the FET.
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Justin (verified owner) –
This upgrade makes a marked difference in the performance of your CR-10 heat bed and for a small investment. Highly recommend for anyone with a CR-10 printer.
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deleonc (verified owner) –
replaced stock mosfet on heatbed with this one, bed heats up quicker then the old stock one on my Cr-10
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Byron –
Easy install on a Ender-3. I replaced all stock wires and xt60 connectors with beefier higher quality parts. Noted a huge difference in warmup time.
Tried printing ABS with the stock mosfets and layer separation was a huge problem, as I could only eek 90c on the bed temperature. Now it cranks to 120c no problem, fast and stable and ABS prints are much improved.
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Ted (verified owner) –
Works great so far, not too hard to install. Bed heats up faster on my CR10. I’m thinking of buying a second for the hotend.
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Robert –
How and where did you mount the mofset? Inside the control box with a special bracket?
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Tim Hoogland –
Depends on your machine. There is a link to a Creality adapter part on the product page if you’re replacing the Creality stock MOSFET.
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dopeylee21 (verified owner) –
I’ve installed two of these. One on an Ender 3v2 and one on an Ender S1. A little tricky to find a place to mount, but work really well. They both heat up faster and seem to stay a lot more consistent at the temp set. I will be installing one on every printer I buy.
On Ender 3v2 I found a mount on Thingiverse and mounted to the underside of the 4040 extrusion. I had already installed raised feet on it to try to improve airflow. On the Ender 3S1 I used the TH3D mount and used a spot next to the mainboard. There was a spot with a raised area that I could use a couple of zip ties to mount it.
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