Dual Z Upgrade Kit For Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, CR-20, & Voxelab Aquila
$54.99
Works with Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, CR-20, & Voxelab Aquila
Upgrade your printer to a stable, dual z setup – Eliminates X gantry sagging
No wiring needed! 100% Mechanical! Click here for the Installation Guide
In stock
What printers does this fit?
- Ender 3
- Ender 3 Pro
- Ender 3 V2
- CR-20
- Voxelab Aquila X1
Kit Contents:
- 4x M4 screws with T-Nuts for bearing blocks
- 2x All-Metal Z Bearing Blocks for Z Rods with Bearings Pre-Installed
- 2x M4 Screws with T-Nuts for Belt Pulley Bracket
- 3x M5 Spacers for Gantry Bracket
- 3x M5 Screws for Gantry Bracket Wheels
- 1x ACM Tensioner Bracket with Idler Preinstalled
- 2x M4 Washers included for the ACM bracket bolts to prevent damage from over-tightening included.
- 2x M8 Pulleys for Belt
- 1x GT2 Belt for Linking Z Rods
- 1x Z Rod for Motor Side
- All-Metal Dual Z bracket with brass nut and 2x M3 Screws
- NOTE: Brass nut and 2x M3 Screws provided in parts bag (may not be installed in the bracket)
- Installation Guide Link
- PSU Relocation Downloads
Installation Information
Install Guide: The installation guide with FULL pictures can be found here: https://support.th3dstudio.com/helpcenter/dual-z-kit-installation-guide-for-ender-3-ender-3-pro-ender-3-v2-cr-20-voxelab-aquila/ <- Read this for installation information.
Edge of Tech Install Video (Ender 3 Models): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=03fQciqSdVM
Warranty Information
3 Months Warranty -Â Our warranty covers any and all defects with the product. If your product fails or has problems within the warranty period you can contact our support team by using the Contact Us link.
Damage/Failure due to improper installation, improper usage, failure resulting from an issue with the machine the product is installed on, 3rd party products connected to our product, and/or modification of the product are not covered under warranty.
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What others are saying
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w0eb (verified owner) –
Got mine yesterday (7/17/2019) and even with no printed install instructions available I had very little trouble installing it. You do have to be careful not to lose the small parts and get the POM wheel spacers installed correctly on the second X-Gantry bracket but once you have these on and the eccentric nut adjusted for snug but smooth movement it’s great. I’ve seen a lot of negative posts from the know-it-all’s saying you don’t need this, it’s too expensive, and a bunch of other negative things, but folks, this thing solved a nagging problem I was having of the Z axis skipping a layer due due to the X gantry sagging on the un-driven end.
Adding this and once I had both ends synchronized so the bottom ends were both at exactly the same height before tightening up the belt, it runs smoothly, makes manual bed leveling (tramming if you prefer) a bit easier (I don’t have an EZABL installed) and on the few pieces I’ve printed since installing it the vertical surface(s) are a bit smoother.
In my opinion as a hobby user (I don’t sell my prints) Creality should have included this in the original printer in the first place. It may not be a MUST have, but it sure makes mine work much better than it did originally.
Jim Sheldon
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pastorjamesbr (verified owner) –
Didnt really need to get this but thought i would try it out. I use a Bltouch and had minor problems with gantry level but was able to adjust the wheels to make it work. I thought i would the dual z out and it works better than i could hope. This turned from a item i dont need to something i am glad i have. It was easy to install (took time to do it right) and now my Ender 3 is works flawless on every print. I will be buying another one for my other Ender. This is something that Creality needs to put as stock.
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w0eb (verified owner) –
Update to my earlier review. Since installing and getting everything adjusted right, including manual bed leveling, I haven’t touched any adjustments since. Everything is printing as close to perfectly as any of these machines can, and I’ve also found that I am now getting outstanding adhesion to the glass bed without any adhesive at all. I did a very thorough cleaning with dish soap and water plus followed that up with a denatured alcohol bath to make sure the glass was squeaky clean. Since that, an occasional alcohol cleaning has kept it working great. Haven’t tried ABS yet but I suspect that WILL need some adhesion help considering the high rate of warping with ABS.
Before installing the Dual Z Axis mod from TH3D, I had to re-level every several days and had to use Layerneer’s “Bed Weld” to get things to stick. Hopefully won’t need any more of that except for ABS.
Jim Sheldon
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jhale85446 (verified owner) –
This upgrade is amazing! I was constantly fighting my X-gantry level since building the printer. Install took much less time than I expected, and the instructions from the forum were helpful. First layer z-offset is much more consistent now. I also did not realize how much this upgrade would improve print quality. There is virtually no z-banding now, and the external perimeter surfaces are super smooth. This upgrade is an absolute must for your Ender3. Thank you TH3D!
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CHARLES A LOOS (verified owner) –
Loveit! Best I got now I can actually print again
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mikerothgeb (verified owner) –
was really easy to install. great idea to improve printer. Was dreading taking the gantry apart, again, to tighten up the screws. now I suspect it will be a non issue in the future.
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Question
Michael –
I have and ender pro 3 and it looks like I would have to relocate my power supply. Let me know if I’m correct. Thanks Michael
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Tim Hoogland –
You can set the PSU on the table next to the machine or we have a page with all the STL files to relocate all the variations of PSUs on these machines: https://www.th3dstudio.com/knowledgebase/ender-3-dual-z-kit-psu-relocation-stl-links/
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Field Audit Services (verified owner) –
Was a PITA for moi to get everything correctly aligned and squared and leveled. But worth the effort by far! My Z axis has never been smoother, with zero binding, even with the print head and DD motor over there, smooth as a babies bottom! Not surprised to see this fantastic and affordable upgrade sold out! Sooo glad I got mine already! Christmas will be a 3d printed gift year! Thanks for all the cool stuff, Tim!
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Ken (verified owner) –
Works great on my CR-20 Pro, helped to improve the accuracy of my probe and removed any sagging of the gantry. It was a little bit of work to get everything aligned properly, but in the end, it went together fine.
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Sean –
Will this work with the micro swiss direct drive kit, not interference problmes?
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Question
Jeff Sparks –
This is going to be my next upgrade. Would it be useful to also install the anti backlash nuts on both sides or is it less of an issue with the dual screw?
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Tim Hoogland –
Much less of an issue. If you have the antibacklash already put it on the motor driven side. Only one of those is needed.
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JimH (verified owner) –
I noticed my Ender3 gantry was starting to sag. Even after leveling and adjusting it just a few prints later it was sagging again. Following the instructions they provide on the support site, with lots of pictures, it was a quick and easy install. No more worrying about my X gantry being level. Thanks TH3D!
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jwerth55303 (verified owner) –
The kit does exactly what I needed it to do, remove the cant of the X axis bar. The directions are minimal which isn’t a big deal as it is rather intuitive to put together. My biggest complaint about the product is the Dibond support for the tensioner pulley. I was expecting a higher quality of material for this piece, i.e. an anodized aluminum plate. The finish work on the Dibond was awful. It looked like it was hand cut and not done very well at all. I cleaned it up but I will probably find someone to make a new plate for me as it is embarrassing to have this piece of aluminum covered plastic on my pride and joy.
The print quality is of my machine has been greatly improved though.
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Tim Hoogland –
Thanks for the feedback on the tensioner part. Would a printed adapter plate be preferred if done in ABS versus the ACM part?
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Question
wsor8478 –
Is this a better solution for eliminating X gantry sagging than a second stepper w/lead screw? Thx
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Tim Hoogland –
We definitely think its a great solution and less work to install. The other solution will not keep it from getting out of alignment like this will. 🙂
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Question
James –
I’m running a 400XL extender kit and was wondering if it’s possible to get belts of other sizes? I would rather do that than to spilt my Z cable to run two steppers off my SKR Mini E3
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Tim Hoogland –
Sorry but we only carry the belt that fits the stock printer.
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douglas michael (verified owner) –
I purchased this kit for my extended ender as i could not stop the gantry sag. the proper length belt is 1000mm. You can find the belt on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GGVTJ6L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Question
Justin B –
Due to the sagging gantry on my CR-20 I’ve got about a 2mm difference from one end of my bed to the other. The EZABL Pro helped with this A LOT but I’m not convinced that the problem is 100% mitigated. Would adding this in addition to the EZABL be overkill?
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Tim Hoogland –
It’s really up to you. These kits lock in the gantry so it doesn’t ever sag. We have it on our Ender 3 and CR-20 here for our desk printers for myself and our GM. They just work with this and we don’t have to worry about the gantry anymore. It’s a solid addition to this machine.
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jtgraphics (verified owner) –
Easy to install kit everything fits, if your looking for an easy way to add duel Z drive to your printer this will do the trick.
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Question
Craig Williams –
Any news on when or if this will be available again? I would really like to purchase one for my Ender 3 but its been out of stock for a while!
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Tim Hoogland –
When a product is out of stock we re-order them. Due to COVID19 affecting manufacturing and shipping times we cannot provide an accurate ETA. If you click “Add to Wishlist” our system will email you when stock is added. Our next order has a large quantity of them coming in so getting one shouldn’t be an issue.
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Justin (verified owner) –
Installed this along with converting my Z axis to linear rail, and couldn’t be happier. No z sag and constant adjusting anymore. Thanks TH3D.
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35sdca (verified owner) –
Removed the screws and added the standard spacers. Then did this dual z. Works like a charm! I bought the autoleveler previously but haven’t installed it because this solves my problem. No calibration needed, it really helps!
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Chad Sullivan (verified owner) –
The sagging axis on my ender bothered me, not only because it looked ridiculous, but it was causing other issues. Excessive wearing of the rollers from supporting a cantilevered beam, print inaccuracies, etc. But over time it became a pressing issue once it began to introduce variance and unpredictability. Sure, it’s a cheap printer, “it’s to be expected at this price level.” No it’s not, I’d call the level of movement and variability in that axis unacceptable. It made it so that even with ABL, first layers were all over the place. Some buried into the print surface, some not adhering at all. Glue on glass, really good surfaces worked, but felt like that was a band aid. I’d tram the bed, then post print do a bed visualization, and it would be wildly different. Heavy springs and witness marks on the fittings, the bed didn’t move.
This solved all that. Perfect and repeatable first layers, even layers across the bed, set it and forget it leveling. If nothing else it’s a cheap upgrade that should have been stock. Plus, if you’re in it to tinker, you’ll have to move the power supply, which brings about all sorts of creative options.
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Question
wjhunt –
I purchased this from Amazon about a month ago: Creality 3D Original Ender 3 Z-Axis Upgrade 2040 Profiles Kit with Two 50CM Aluminum Extrusions and Lead Screw Enlarging 10CM Printing Space for Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro/Ender 3 V2.
It said it was for the ender3v2 but the bearing brackets were too wide. They look too wide in this package as well, Will they fit my V2?
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Tim Hoogland –
That kit you commented about from the Amazon vendor looks to extend the Z-axis by 100mm, so the included leadscrew will likely be too short for your printer with that 3rd party product installed.
You would have to source a leadscrew that is the same length as the one that came in the kit you bought. Zyltech is where we would recommend getting a leadscrew from, they can cut them to the length you need. Measure the existing leadscrew from that kit you bought to see how long it would need to be. Based on the rough specs on that product it looks to use a 450mm length, 4 start leadscrew.
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Question
luisd.1300 –
wouldnt one stepper motor be on alot of stress?whats the benefits of using one instead of two?
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Tim Hoogland –
Using one motor is perfectly fine and will work with the stock motor. Using one like this is easier to install (no wiring or VREF changes) and keeps the gantry locked in so it can’t sag. Dual motors require wiring changes, VREF changes on the board, and the gantry can still sag when the motors are off.
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Question
drizzik –
Will there be a kit for the Ender 3 Max?
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Tim Hoogland –
We do not have plans at this time to make this work with the Ender 3 MAX. It would require a new belt and possibly a different leadscrew to make it work with the MAX due to the larger print area and frame it uses.
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Question
adam.th3dstudio –
I’m interested in a beltless version with a second stepper motor, as I’m planning on doing a motherboard update at the same time with 5 axis for independent auto-leveling.
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Tim Hoogland –
Hi there, we only have the belted option. If you wanted to convert this to a dual-motor setup you’d need to get a coupler for the leadscrew, an additional stepper, and print a mount for the 2nd z motor (there are some on thingiverse for Creality machines). Once you have the 2nd motor installed, you would no longer use the belt that comes with the kit.
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Matthew Patterson (verified owner) –
28Dec2021 Edit: I updated my review from 3/5 stars to 4/5 stars because the team at TH3D put a lot of care and effort into helping me resolve the issues I came across. I therefore think that their commitment to customer service warrants a better review.
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The upgrade stabilized the X gantry as promised, so I’m happy about that. I’m not as happy with the following:
-The grub screw that secures the bearing in one of the bearing blocks came stripped.
-One of the bearing block housings was banged up and had several deep scratches that went through the powder coating.
-The machined tensioner bracket was machined by hand and not deburred. The long screw slots meant for sliding the bracket were not machined straight. The bearing in the pulley assembly was caked full of debris (aluminum burrs and pieces of polymer from the aluminum sandwich material). I had to disassemble it, wire brush it, then blow it out with air for the pulley to run smoothly.
-The tensioner bracket could use a redesign. I do not like the fact that the extra horizontal surface of the bracket mounted on the upper crossbar of the printer limits the mobility of the tool head for tall prints, especially for taller direct drive assemblies. For my MicroSwiss direct drive assembly, it interferes with the extruder wires and the extruder motor. I think it would be relatively easy to design a bracket whose tensioner pulley faces (and extends out toward) the back of the machine. Using a tensioner screw assembly similar to that of the stock X-belt tensioner, the “new” design could have a front vertical face that is flush with the front vertical face of the top crossbar. In addition, by extending the tensioner arm out toward the back of the machine, the spool holder bracket would not be within the triangular belt path. The tensioner belt would simply run in a straight line behind the bracket and therefore give you much more room to slide around the spool holder bracket on the crossbar.
-The brass Z-screw receiver is mounted on the provided gantry bracket by just two screws. This receiver, as per normal protocol and the instructions, is supposed to be mounted loose as to mitigate Z-banding. The provided screws do not go through the receiver, nor do they come with nuts. Since these screws are meant to be loose and do not have any other fastener to prevent them from backing out. you will need to either monitor these screws closely or replace them for longer screws that accept lock nuts.
-The supplied gantry bracket is made of very soft aluminum and arrived bent and out of square. I had to bend it back into square, but it takes surprisingly little of force to bend it, so I worry about its longevity.
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Tim Hoogland –
Hi there Matthew. If you have parts that need to be replaced please contact our support team and they can get you squared away. We are human here so sometimes we may miss something in the QC process but we will replace defective parts if they accidentally get sent out.
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Tim Hoogland –
Thank you Matt! We try our best and sometimes things make it out that shouldn’t have. When that happens we will make it right. If you need anything else please do not hesitate to contact us!
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David Welch (verified owner) –
I was going crazy trying to get the gantry to hang level on my Ender 3v2. After many hours of Google-Fu I came to the conclusion that I could either live with it or add a dual z kit. I almost bought an electric kit until I came across this one. I like that it’s all mechanical and I won’t have to worry about routing wires for another stepper motor. It took me about 20 minutes to go from unplugging the printer to plugging it back in and running a test print. Just to point out, there are other kits on that jungle-theme retail site that look like this one, but this kit comes with pillow blocks that have bearings in them. Look closely at the knock-off’s pictures.
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Question
Cristian Enache –
Will there be a kit for the Ender 3 Max?
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Tim Hoogland –
No there will not.
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Question
Brandon Manuel –
Any idea when these will be back in stock?
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Tim Hoogland –
Typically these will be restocked in 2-3 weeks. They take a bit to be made and then we do final assembly QC here in our shop.
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Question
kj12.wright –
What is the purpose of swapping the Z rods?? Why can’t you use the included rod on the side that needs it??
Thanks
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Tim Hoogland –
Because the included one is longer. You use the stock, shorter one on the new side.
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Emerson Corder (verified owner) –
Once installed and tuned, it eliminates most if not all z-banding and other gantry issues. I own two of these kits for my Ender 3s
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Question
dwjensen (verified owner) –
Anyone know what size belt I would need to use this on an Ender 3 MAX? I know I need a 500mm rod, but I haven’t found info on belt size anywhere.
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